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In an industry in which being “ugly pretty” books you the job, it’s shockingly hard to qualify for a spot doing your little turn on the catwalk. The standards for female modelling are prohibitively high, often seeking those below 25 on age and dangerously below 18 on BMI. Ethnicity is to fit a cookie cutter check box and mixed ethnicities are considered beautiful, but a casting confusion. Height must always exceed 5”7 and at that, prepare to be considered short.
Fashion shows globally host the most important people in industry from buyers to bloggers, editors to forecasters. There’s little margin for error. In order to keep the collections salable and generate heat, the clothing must do all the talking. And the voice better be booming. Here’s where the argument falls to the “classic” runway model – the three E’s; ease, enticement and ego. Though a sleek and polished show winds up presenting, it’s anything but calm backstage. Last minute switches, model no-shows, clothing rips and a myriad of other things can go wrong. Thus holding to one body type makes things run smoother. If one model doesn’t show, the dress can easily be thrown on someone else and fit more or less the same way. Wafer thin also means no billowing, no pulling and no bulging. This makes the clothing appear to be flawless in fit and entices buyers to want to bring the line in store come the next season. Glove fits coupled with proper design and trend equals high sell rates, good write-ups and a sky-rocketed reputation for the designer.
It may be time; however, to put the old model to bed so to speak. It’s a social media storm out here with thousands upon millions upon billions of images and videos being shared daily of real women. A barrage of selfie campaigns are replacing traditional ads; the implications of which are leading to the slow adoption of models that don’t fit the standard bill. Social apps and sites will demand more of today’s woman’s time, ensuring that she spend at least equal time staring at the faces of her friends as those of models. It’s about reality and an educated consumer willing those that dress her to not shame her for her shape, size, skin or anything else.
Integration of real world models is moving more rapidly through the moderate price market, but it appears Lincoln Center has opened its doors to a few models that redefine the standard. It may not be much, but No Hangers Barred is in full favour of any bias cut – badoom boom ch! Here’s a look at a few of the changing faces in industry that have rocked the catwalk during Fashion Week and made their mark in magazine spreads.
Diandra Forrest
thingsilike-rotex.blogspot.com
Proud African American model Diandra Forrest was born with Albinism. Though she was ridiculed in her youth growing up in the Bronx for her pale skin, Forrest has since found her niche from it. Her beautiful facial features blend uniquely with her pigmentation making her a striking choice for any runway. She has walked for Jean Paul Gaultier, VFiles and Vivienne Westwood and has lent her face to many editorial spreads.
Rain Dove
www.kubatbillot.com
With a completely androgynous look, Rain Dove seamlessly models both menswear and womenswear. Dove uses her modelling as a form of activism in promoting lack of gender specific clothing which appeals to the anatomical values of an individual. Dove has been all over the NYFW scene walking for Malan Breton, Vivienne Hu and Rochambeau to name a few. We expect to see much more of her this September.
Jillian Mercado
www.elle.it
Born with Muscular Dystrophy, Jillian Mercado learned early on in her studies at The Fashion Institute of Technology that her industry wasn’t the most open-minded when it came to beauty. She sought to change that and has found quite a large amount of success. Major luxury retailer Nordstrom and denim designer Diesel have scooped up Mercado for fashion campaigns.
Elliott Sailors
nickystyles.com
Elliott Sailors started out on a very traditional path. She was a former beauty pageant contestant turned model and had always fit the model mould. As she aged, she learned how quickly the industry could turn on her. Menswear then called to her as a method of prolonging her career. She has walked for the likes of Vivienne Westwood, Rick Owens and Diesel Reboot.
Andreja Pejic
www.etonline.com
Claiming a new first in Fashion Week history, Andreja Pejic walked both the men’s and women’s runways for the same designers for FW15/16. Born Andrej, Pejic originated as an androgynous male model, who has changed her modelling parameters since transitioning. She emerged as one to watch with her compelling walk down the Giles runway in London. Previously, she had graced the runways of DKNY, Rick Owens and Jean Paul Gauliter in addition to appearing in numerous ad campaigns.
Carmen Dell’Orefice
www.ganzomag.com
83 years young and still making a splash. Talk about aging gracefully. Carmen Dell’Orefice refuses to quit as she continues to dominate the editorial world. She’s been featured in the pages of Harper’s Bazaar and Vanity Fair, taken the cover spot on Marie Claire, appeared in ad campaigns for designers such as El Libro Amarillo and Rouge and walked in shows for Marimekko and Narisol Ferrari. Bridge club be damned!
Myla Dalbesio
www.news.com.au
While plus size has made its way into some mainstream ads, it always seems to be too strongly a point of pride from the brands. Myla Dalbesio burned up her fair share of newsfeeds when her size 10 figure appeared in a Calvin Klein spread of size 0’s without a word of brand acknowledgement. The message spoke loud enough as is and the stunning model has since been featured in many editorials including a “Selfies in Spandex” spread on Vogue.com.
Jamie Brewer/Danielle Sheypuk
www.buzzfeed.com / www.naija.io
Two Fashion Week firsts came down the Carrie Hammer runway as part of her “role models, not runway models” campaign. American Horror Story actress Jamie Brewer really got people talking as the first person with Down Syndrome to walk at NYFW. Similarly clinical psychologist Danielle Sheypuk captivated as she made her way down the runway in a wheelchair. Though modelling isn’t the future path for either of these ladies, we certainly commend their boldness in challenging the status quo last winter.
Winnie Harlow
www.fashiongonerogue.com
Born with Vitiligo, model Winnie Harlow is proving that beauty certainly can extend beyond symmetry and the expected. Her skin discolouration hasn’t gotten in her way at all. This gorgeous and confident model has been the face of European brand Desigual and proved a perfect light-hearted choice for their polka dot campaign. Harlow has also walked for Diesel and has a promising career ahead.
Lea T
www.bigshocking.com
Transgender model Lea T has been hard at it for a while now, having become the face of Givenchy in 2010. She’s since covered much ground having been featured in many editorial spreads and campaigns including Benetton and Phillipp Plein. In 2014, Lea T claimed the rights to being the first openly transgender model to be the face of a cosmetics brand when she stepped into her role at Redken.
It would seem that brands adapting to the modern world have been getting their praises. Diesel, Rick Owens, Jean Paul Gaultier and Vivienne Westwood showing their ability to evolve with several of the above mentioned models have certainly taken their positive press as a result. If heads will turn and people will be talking, the clothing will certainly get its air time regardless of the body it hangs off of. Yes, there will be challenges to overcome. Perhaps more backup models should be on call. Clothing trials should be done ahead of time, but there is no reason we cannot adapt.
If ready-to-wear Fashion Week offerings are meant to be sold, why should they continue to be sold under false body pretences? If we truly must keep uniformity in some fashion shows, it should at least be restricted to the couture collections; those meant as an art form and purchased only rarely by the supremely wealthy. This is one mode of operation in need of a tweak!
No Hangers Barred 
