If fashion once worked in defined clockwork cycles, this season is proving the fluidity of today’s runways and trends. While two of our dominant themes prevail from the ’70s, the rest of our designers are spanning the timeline making pitstops in every decade (skip the 1950s) from the ’20s through the late ’90s.
Unique designer inspirations from the late David Bowie to Tim Burton’s cult classic Beetlejuice leave the runways teaming with a striking contrast of wearable garments to obscene styling.
While some collections prove comically avant-garde *cough, cough Comme Des Garcons*, the bulk of the productions put drool-worthy context to the term “ready to wear”.
Leisured Sophisticate
Whether it’s the Studio 54 gold lamé deep-v fitted jumpsuit or the olive green velveteen leisure suit resting a top a paisley pointed collar shirt, the 1970’s is a time period full of audacious dressing. For fall/winter 2016/17, looks hop right off the tour buses of the Vinyl decade from the rockers themselves straight through to the girls that swoon at their feet. Daily leisure to nightly lavishness, the trends endure.
A.P.C.
Derek Lam
Mara Hoffman
Kaelen
The details: Suedes, crushed velvets, corduroys, chenilles, silks and lamés make up the luxuriousness of this era of dress. Muted-half tones are often paired with highly bold color calling to vibrancy of the decade. Pattern is not something designers shy away from, dipping lightly into the trends of the decade prior. Lessening the psychedelia, and upping the sophistication with softer folkloric prints, the ’70s is marked by the beginning of decadence in fashion and lifestyle.
Aalto
Leonard
Vetements
Mara Hoffman
Another major change coming out of the seventies is the start of “sexy”. Plunging neck lines, tight fitting turtleneck sweaters, hot pants, cinched waists – it’s all about showing off the body. Fit-and-flare dominates with the bell sleeve and bell bottom at the helm of most wardrobes.
Alice + Olivia
Area
Derek Lam 10 Crosby
Roksanda
A marker of societal change with the early start of the “career woman”, singular modes of dress for women are left behind. Skirts now come in three lengths; short, midi and maxi. Jumpsuits and high-waisted pants topped off by massive belt buckles are the height of popularity.
Akris
Missoni
Vanessa Seward
Vivienne Tam
*Accessories note: The beveled-square toe platform boot is back and it’s begging for a dig through mom and dad’s record collection for some Nancy Sinatra. These boots were made for walkin’ and they’re doing it from ankle booties through to thigh-highs.
Balenciaga
Marc Jacobs
Balenciaga
Maison Margiela
*Beauty note: The shag rests atop most heads in this trend, with the odd break for an obvious Farah Fawcett flip.
Chloe
Michael Kors Collection
Chloe
Boss
Prairie Savant
If rocker socialite defines the first ’70s trend, Prairie Savant is the sweet and naive cousin visiting for the week from South Dakota. This trend occupies the softer side of the ’70s as it is categorized by the rural muting of modes of dress, the step back from the rise to self-indulgence and an inclination to stick to a strongly feminine aesthetic.
Sonia Rykiel
Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini
Kenzo
The Details: Thin cottons, sheers, linens, laces, satins and tulles make up the fabric selection on these delicate garments. Softer hues and washed out floral prints bring a delicate beauty to the long-flowing garments. Primarily maxi frocks, the prairie look is one easily identified by the mass of ruffles.
Chloe
Simone Rocha
Toga
Erdem
Hints of romanticism sweep through this trend with ruffled collar bibs, cape build-ins and flouncing details that key in the English Rose aesthetic. Ruffles appear in all forms from lining dresses and maxi skirts to dangling at the high-hip of a loose fitting bohemian blouse.
Francesco Scognamiglio
Fendi
Kenzo
Sonia Rykiel
Recalling the first decade to touch upon the prairie-look, the ’30s leg of mutton sleeve offers body to the otherwise subdued trend. The effect is used at varying degrees allowing a designer to play around with the drama of the look. The female necktie also makes a reappearance offering a lighter segue into the trend without the risk of going matronly.
Brock Collection
Manish Arora
Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini
Ulla Johnson
*Beauty note: Hair styles favor the tapered quiff, with an elevated semi-roll in front and the gelled front “greaser”.
Kenzo
Kenzo
Miu Miu
Miu Miu
Mawkish Escapism
The romance dips deeper into the historical waters with the Mawkish Escapism trend. Influences pull from the Renaissance era, touch upon the ’20s and even go darker with the 17th century coven-laden garments. This trend runs the gamut of poetic nostalgia, with draping and femininity as its mainstays.
Elie Saab
Naeem Khan
Reem Acra
Antonio Marras
The Details: Luxe textiles include velour, chantilly lace, brocade, georgette, damask and various other sheer fabrics. The use of textile contrast from the rigid to the flowing in a mass of jewel tones and blacks establishes a refined grandeur in the designs. At times touched with a chromatic abstract print, the opulence grows all the greater.
Andrew Gn
Etro
Marchesa
Monique Lhuillier
Feminine silhouettes hold a certain delicacy, even whilst the design elements go in a slightly villainous direction. Crumpled features, sheer elements, high collars, capes and a flare for the dramatics create a sense of intrigue taking the looks beyond the sickeningly sweet and into the realms of a compelling world ‘beyond’.
Roberto Cavalli
Valentin Yudashkin
Zimmermann
Monique Lhuillier
Though suiting, blouses and lengthier skirts can certainly fall into this category, gowns and cocktail dresses are the defining garments.
Lanvin
Blumarine
Marchesa
Valentino
*Accessories note: Two shoes currently en vogue match up with this trend. The pointed-toe stiletto amps up the theatrics, while the ballerina shoe (flat or heeled) mutes the brooding right out of the ensemble.
Loewe
Michael Kors Collection
Valentino
Miu Miu
*Beauty note: Styling takes even the softer looks in a moodier direction. Alternating emphasis, eyes are dark and graphic, while lips are going from berry all the way through black.
Chanel
Fendi
Louis Vuitton
Rodarte
Alt. Eclecticism
Somewhere between the birth of punk music in the 1980’s and the grungy garage-band days of the 1990’s, streetwear came to be. The Alt Eclecticism trend blurs the lines of the two generations, mixing the electric with the apathetic and resulting in next-level layering. The looks seem to pair items haphazardly, but the aesthetic is punishingly “cool”. Vibing heavily on the underground art scene and channeling a disenfranchised youth, Alt. Eclecticism treats fashion unapologetically like it doesn’t matter (while making it look better than most).
Phelan
Public School
Sportmax
Alexander Wang
The Details: Anything and everything goes so long as it’s layered, artfully cluttered and confidently adorned. Denim, leather, cotton, furs and rigid fabrics occupy valuable real estate on these catwalks. Palettes combine neutrals with pops of vibrant colors. Pattern is not common, though it is present in smaller doses.
J.W. Anderson
Moschino
Public School
Toga
Silhouettes borrow from sportswear, bordering on athleisure. With hints of heritage in the mix, the combination is wholly incongruent, but somehow works. Oversized, well-tailored, but deconstructed garments rest atop other oversized, well-tailored but deconstructed garments. The only nods to femininity fall in a few peaks of skin consistent with this season’s overall love of the conspicuous cutout.
A Detacher
Au Jour Le Jour
Jacquemus
Off-White
Items on command include athletic puffer coats, tousled denim anything and sweatshirts.
Nicopanda
Y/Project
Yang Li
VFiles
*Accessories note: All is to be styled with the clunkiest of footwear, metal anything and a beanie.
Alexander Wang
Versace
Michael Kors Collection
Alexander Wang
*Beauty note: Welcome back nude to browned lips, excessive (non-cat) eyeliner and spider mascara.
Christian Dior
Marc Jacobs
Roberto Cavalli
Stella McCartney
Militant Forces
As a (non-patriotic) tribute to the defence forces that protect and serve, the runways are once again cluttered with military influences. From the modern garb, to the ’40s looks that speak to a world at war, fall/winter 2016/17 climbs right into the trenches. Land, sky and sea are all targeted in color scheme and overall feel.
Ermanno Scervino
Tommy Hilfiger
Zac Posen
Anrealage
The Details: Boiled wool, suiting fabric, cotton, canvas, and fur accents support many of these pieces. Colors predominately settle in at Army greens, Navy/Air Force blues and the reds of the Queen’s Guard.
Burberry
Dolce & Gabbana
Topshop Unique
Versace
Construction is paramount to the Militant Forces trend. Rigid garments are still made flattering and their bulk is met with aesthetic purpose. Though silhouettes are less form-fitting, this season’s favorite cinched waist returns to bring back shape in a woman’s body.
Burberry
Dsquared2
Haider Ackermann
Maison Margiela
Details include squared shoulders, epaulettes, tassels and hook-and-eyes. Though the trend is interpreted into wearable suits and dresses, the military jackets are the foundation of the trend.
Andrew Gn
Dolce & Gabanna
Louis Vuitton
John Galliano
*Accessories note: While some designers go literal, pairing their looks with military accessories such as the vintage Navy hat, others merely suggest structure with the additions of corset overlays.
Prada
Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton
Prada
City Scape
As another trend with a high focus on construction, City Scape delves into the world of Architecture. Clean lines are paired with drapery to evoke the feel of an urban city from the tallest sky-scrapers to the gentle arcs of the bridges. Minimalism is challenged to new heights where it can utilize layering and asymmetry to establish unexpected compilations.
Rick Owens
BCBG Max Azria
Sportmax
Narciso Rodriguez
The Details: Crisp linens, cashmeres, jerseys, cottons, suedes and peau de soie are the most frequent textile choices. Color palettes highly favor neutrals, with shades of white and grey dominating. Colors can be present as well, though they tend to be a focus point.
1205
Dion Lee
Les Copains
Ports 1961
Silhouettes vary greatly, with the only commonality being elongating the body. Lines are very clear throughout these looks for the purpose of guiding the eye. Often these looks pair a highly structured garment with a lightly draped counterpart. The simplicity in the contrast leaves an overall concluding feel of effortless elegance.
Maticevski
Vera Wang
Esteban Cortazar
Dion Lee
Layered pieces prove open to all sorts of garments. The wide-leg pant and cross-over skirt take lead as trend “must-haves”.
ADEAM
Damir Doma
Eckhaus Latta
Ji Oh
*Beauty note: A continuation of the geometric form of the trend, hair is sleeked back with extreme left side-parts.
Calvin Klein Collection
Celine
Calvin Klein Collection
Celine
While some of the season’s contenders are not a “one style fits all”, there seems to be a little something wearable for everyone. Those afflicted with a hefty bust may stay away from the ruffled-bib of the Prairie Savant, but the necktie is an easy buy in. If you weren’t born into long supermodel legs, you could keep off the midi skirt and swap in the mini cross-over.
Whether you’re in search of a little whimsy or aiming to strike a look of elite luxury, the trends will accommodate. Perhaps most important is to recall the lack of boundary in today’s world of dress. If it fits, if it makes you happy… wear it! You can always find a way to roll it into a trend category with a good accessory closet and a keen eye for beauty.
No Hangers Barred 