Moschino to Kick-Off MADE LA with Public Runway Show

MADE LA Event Site

Moschino, under the creative direction of the talented Jeremy Scott, will be opening for the two-day MADE LA event this June with a publicly-hosted runway show. Picking up on an industry trend du jour, Scott will be combining menswear and womenswear onto one catwalk. Men’s spring 2017 and women’s resort 2016 will be showing as part of a move away from Milan and London. Scott, who claims Los Angeles as home, is incredibly excited at the opportunity to present in his arena.

“As I show my own show in NYC and Moschino in Milan and London for the men’s, I’ve never had the luxury of doing a show in the city I live in and getting to sleep in my own bed that night!” – he told Vogue.com.

Jeremy Scott for Moschino

The first ever MADE Los Angeles event comes to the newly minted fashion hub straight from New York’s meatpacking district where MADE Fashion Week is a noted authority on emerging designers. The two-day extravaganza to be hosted on June 10^th and 11^th at L.A. Live’s Event Deck will focus on the meet point of art, fashion and music. The event will include a combination of runway shows, presentations and pop-up shops set up like a high fashion flea market. The works of over 30 designers and artisans will be available for purchase in what will be referred to as “The Stores”.

Standing out from fashion events around the globe, MADE LA will allow anyone to purchase a ticket and find themselves amongst the fashion elite. For those who’ve often longed to catch a glimpse of the runways, they’re sure not to be disappointed.

Tyler the Creator for Golf Wang

While Moschino will bring a known presence on day one, Tyler the Creator is set to change the channel with a relaxed attitude into day two. Tyler will be presenting his back-to-basics brand Golf Wang with his first foray into the pomp and circumstance of the fashion industry.

On accepting his invite to present, Tyler claimed “I just figured, Why not? Why not do something different?… Not everybody in the upper fashion world is wearing all-black Saint Laurent pieces and is super pretentious. I want to show them a different world.”

While the event caters to the masses, the bulk of the details remain under cloak and dagger for the time being, keeping that air of mystery so commonly seductive to the fashion industry.

#ICYMI: Alice + Olivia to Live Stream “See Now, Buy Now” Coachella Show

Hot on the heels of brands like Burberry, Tom Ford and Rebecca Minkoff, comes further news in the “see now, buy now” stakes, and this time not tied to fashion weeks.

New York brand Alice + Olivia is launching a shoppable runway show attached to the behemoth of the US festival season, Coachella.

Held in collaboration with Neiman Marcus, it will run just two short days before the highly anticipated opening weekend of the Californian music festival.

Aptly, the brand’s spring 2016 collection favours a bohemian aesthetic. Though a selection of those pieces were presented at New York Fashion Week back in September 2015, a fresh capsule collection inspired by Grateful Dead will be presented as well.

More on this story available at Fashion & Mash.

Fall/Winter 2016/17 Trend Report

If fashion once worked in defined clockwork cycles, this season is proving the fluidity of today’s runways and trends. While two of our dominant themes prevail from the ’70s, the rest of our designers are spanning the timeline making pitstops in every decade (skip the 1950s) from the ’20s through the late ’90s.

Unique designer inspirations from the late David Bowie to Tim Burton’s cult classic Beetlejuice leave the runways teaming with a striking contrast of wearable garments to obscene styling.

While some collections prove comically avant-garde *cough, cough Comme Des Garcons*, the bulk of the productions put drool-worthy context to the term “ready to wear”.

Leisured Sophisticate

Whether it’s the Studio 54 gold lamé deep-v fitted jumpsuit or the olive green velveteen leisure suit resting a top a paisley pointed collar shirt, the 1970’s is a time period full of audacious dressing. For fall/winter 2016/17, looks hop right off the tour buses of the Vinyl decade from the rockers themselves straight through to the girls that swoon at their feet. Daily leisure to nightly lavishness, the trends endure.

A.P.C.

Derek Lam

Mara Hoffman

Kaelen

The details: Suedes, crushed velvets, corduroys, chenilles, silks and lamés make up the luxuriousness of this era of dress. Muted-half tones are often paired with highly bold color calling to vibrancy of the decade. Pattern is not something designers shy away from, dipping lightly into the trends of the decade prior. Lessening the psychedelia, and upping the sophistication with softer folkloric prints, the ’70s is marked by the beginning of decadence in fashion and lifestyle.

Aalto

Leonard

Vetements

Mara Hoffman

Another major change coming out of the seventies is the start of “sexy”. Plunging neck lines, tight fitting turtleneck sweaters, hot pants, cinched waists – it’s all about showing off the body. Fit-and-flare dominates  with the bell sleeve and bell bottom at the helm of most wardrobes.

Alice + Olivia

Area

Derek Lam 10 Crosby

Roksanda

A marker of societal change with the early start of the “career woman”, singular modes of dress for women are left behind. Skirts now come in three lengths; short, midi and maxi. Jumpsuits and high-waisted pants topped off by massive belt buckles are the height of popularity.

Akris

Missoni

Vanessa Seward

Vivienne Tam

*Accessories note: The beveled-square toe platform boot is back and it’s begging for a dig through mom and dad’s record collection for some Nancy Sinatra. These boots were made for walkin’ and they’re doing it from ankle booties through to thigh-highs.

Balenciaga

Marc Jacobs

Balenciaga

Maison Margiela

*Beauty note: The shag rests atop most heads in this trend, with the odd break for an obvious Farah Fawcett flip.

Chloe

Michael Kors Collection

Chloe

Boss

Prairie Savant

If rocker socialite defines the first ’70s trend, Prairie Savant is the sweet and naive cousin visiting for the week from South Dakota. This trend occupies the softer side of the ’70s as it is categorized by the rural muting of modes of dress, the step back from the rise to self-indulgence and an inclination to stick to a strongly feminine aesthetic.

Sonia Rykiel

Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini

Kenzo

The Details: Thin cottons, sheers, linens, laces, satins and tulles make up the fabric selection on these delicate garments. Softer hues and washed out floral prints bring a delicate beauty to the long-flowing garments. Primarily maxi frocks, the prairie look is one easily identified by the mass of ruffles.

Chloe

Simone Rocha

Toga

Erdem

Hints of romanticism sweep through this trend with ruffled collar bibs, cape build-ins and flouncing details that key in the English Rose aesthetic. Ruffles appear in all forms from lining dresses and maxi skirts to dangling at the high-hip of a loose fitting bohemian blouse.

Francesco Scognamiglio

Fendi

Kenzo

Sonia Rykiel

Recalling the first decade to touch upon the prairie-look, the ’30s leg of mutton sleeve offers body to the otherwise subdued trend. The effect is used at varying degrees allowing a designer to play around with the drama of the look. The female necktie also makes a reappearance offering a lighter segue into the trend without the risk of going matronly.

Brock Collection

Manish Arora

Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini

Ulla Johnson

*Beauty note: Hair styles favor the tapered quiff, with an elevated semi-roll in front and the gelled front “greaser”.

Kenzo

Kenzo

Miu Miu

Miu Miu

Mawkish Escapism

The romance dips deeper into the historical waters with the Mawkish Escapism trend. Influences pull from the Renaissance era, touch upon the ’20s and even go darker with the 17th century coven-laden garments. This trend runs the gamut of poetic nostalgia, with draping and femininity as its mainstays.

Elie Saab

Naeem Khan

Reem Acra

Antonio Marras

The Details: Luxe textiles include velour, chantilly lace, brocade, georgette, damask and various other sheer fabrics. The use of textile contrast from the rigid to the flowing in a mass of jewel tones and blacks establishes a refined grandeur in the designs. At times touched with a chromatic abstract print, the opulence grows all the greater.

Andrew Gn

Etro

Marchesa

Monique Lhuillier

Feminine silhouettes hold a certain delicacy, even whilst the design elements go in a slightly villainous direction. Crumpled features, sheer elements, high collars, capes and a flare for the dramatics create a sense of intrigue taking the looks beyond the sickeningly sweet and into the realms of a compelling world ‘beyond’.

Roberto Cavalli

Valentin Yudashkin

Zimmermann

Monique Lhuillier

Though suiting, blouses and lengthier skirts can certainly fall into this category, gowns and cocktail dresses are the defining garments.

Lanvin

Blumarine

Marchesa

Valentino

*Accessories note: Two shoes currently en vogue match up with this trend. The pointed-toe stiletto amps up the theatrics, while the ballerina shoe (flat or heeled) mutes the brooding right out of the ensemble.

Loewe

Michael Kors Collection

Valentino

Miu Miu

*Beauty note: Styling takes even the softer looks in a moodier direction. Alternating emphasis, eyes are dark and graphic, while lips are going from berry all the way through black.

Chanel

Fendi

Louis Vuitton

Rodarte

Alt. Eclecticism

Somewhere between the birth of punk music in the 1980’s and the grungy garage-band days of the 1990’s, streetwear came to be. The Alt Eclecticism trend blurs the lines of the two generations, mixing the electric with the apathetic and resulting in next-level layering. The looks seem to pair items haphazardly, but the aesthetic is punishingly “cool”. Vibing heavily on the underground art scene and channeling a disenfranchised youth, Alt. Eclecticism treats fashion unapologetically like it doesn’t matter (while making it look better than most).

Phelan

Public School

Sportmax

Alexander Wang

The Details: Anything and everything goes so long as it’s layered, artfully cluttered and confidently adorned. Denim, leather, cotton, furs and rigid fabrics occupy valuable real estate on these catwalks. Palettes combine neutrals with pops of vibrant colors. Pattern is not common, though it is present in smaller doses.

J.W. Anderson

Moschino

Public School

Toga

Silhouettes borrow from sportswear, bordering on athleisure. With hints of heritage in the mix, the combination is wholly incongruent, but somehow works. Oversized, well-tailored, but deconstructed garments rest atop other oversized, well-tailored but deconstructed garments. The only nods to femininity fall in a few peaks of skin consistent with this season’s overall love of the conspicuous cutout.

A Detacher

Au Jour Le Jour

Jacquemus

Off-White

Items on command include athletic puffer coats, tousled denim anything and sweatshirts.

Nicopanda

Y/Project

Yang Li

VFiles

*Accessories note: All is to be styled with the clunkiest of footwear, metal anything and a beanie.

Alexander Wang

Versace

Michael Kors Collection

Alexander Wang

*Beauty note:  Welcome back nude to browned lips, excessive (non-cat) eyeliner and spider mascara.

Christian Dior

Marc Jacobs

Roberto Cavalli

Stella McCartney

Militant Forces

As a (non-patriotic) tribute to the defence forces that protect and serve, the runways are once again cluttered with military influences. From the modern garb, to the ’40s looks that speak to a world at war, fall/winter 2016/17 climbs right into the trenches. Land, sky and sea are all targeted in color scheme and overall feel.

Ermanno Scervino

Tommy Hilfiger

Zac Posen

Anrealage

The Details: Boiled wool, suiting fabric, cotton, canvas, and fur accents support many of these pieces. Colors predominately settle in at Army greens, Navy/Air Force blues and the reds of the Queen’s Guard.

Burberry

Dolce & Gabbana

Topshop Unique

Versace

Construction is paramount to the Militant Forces trend. Rigid garments are still made flattering and their bulk is met with aesthetic purpose. Though silhouettes are less form-fitting, this season’s favorite cinched waist returns to bring back shape in a woman’s body.

Burberry

Dsquared2

Haider Ackermann

Maison Margiela

Details include squared shoulders, epaulettes, tassels and hook-and-eyes. Though the trend is interpreted into wearable suits and dresses, the military jackets are the foundation of the trend.

Andrew Gn

Dolce & Gabanna

Louis Vuitton

John Galliano

*Accessories note: While some designers go literal, pairing their looks with military accessories such as the vintage Navy hat, others merely suggest structure with the additions of corset overlays.

Prada

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

Prada

City Scape

As another trend with a high focus on construction, City Scape delves into the world of Architecture. Clean lines are paired with drapery to evoke the feel of an urban city from the tallest sky-scrapers to the gentle arcs of the bridges. Minimalism is challenged to new heights where it can utilize layering and asymmetry to establish unexpected compilations.

Rick Owens

BCBG Max Azria

Sportmax

Narciso Rodriguez

The Details: Crisp linens, cashmeres, jerseys, cottons, suedes and peau de soie are the most frequent textile choices. Color palettes highly favor neutrals, with shades of white and grey dominating. Colors can be present as well, though they tend to be a focus point.

1205

Dion Lee

Les Copains

Ports 1961

Silhouettes vary greatly, with the only commonality being elongating the body. Lines are very clear throughout these looks for the purpose of guiding the eye. Often these looks pair a highly structured garment with a lightly draped counterpart. The simplicity in the contrast leaves an overall concluding feel of effortless elegance.

Maticevski

Vera Wang

Esteban Cortazar

Dion Lee

Layered pieces prove open to all sorts of garments. The wide-leg pant and cross-over skirt take lead as trend “must-haves”.

ADEAM

Damir Doma

Eckhaus Latta

Ji Oh

*Beauty note: A continuation of the geometric form of the trend, hair is sleeked back with extreme left side-parts.

Calvin Klein Collection

Celine

Calvin Klein Collection

Celine

While some of the season’s contenders are not a “one style fits all”, there seems to be a little something wearable for everyone. Those afflicted with a hefty bust may stay away from the ruffled-bib of the Prairie Savant, but the necktie is an easy buy in. If you weren’t born into long supermodel legs, you could keep off the midi skirt and swap in the mini cross-over.

Whether you’re in search of a little whimsy or aiming to strike a look of elite luxury, the trends will accommodate. Perhaps most important is to recall the lack of boundary in today’s world of dress. If it fits, if it makes you happy… wear it! You can always find a way to roll it into a trend category with a good accessory closet and a keen eye for beauty.

 

Fall/Winter 2016/17 Color Report

As is typical of the cooler months of the year, clothing showed for fall/winter 2016/17 veered on the side of warmth. Rich hues were paired with lush inviting fabrics for clothing that begged to stave off spring a little while longer!

Though the palettes did include a smattering of cooler Blues and Purples, a common theme presented itself in the Reds family.

Warmth Winners

Pinks

Stepped away from the bleached hues of the spring/summer collections, Pinks showed on the catwalks this past fashion week were much richer. The big Kahuna of the season was undeniable Fuchsia, bursting bold color all around. On the softer side, the runways were infused with Salmon and its antiqued offshoot; Tea Rose.

Fashion Fuchsia

Just Cavalli

Moschino

Public School

Oscar de la Renta

Salmon

A Detacher

Rochas

Eckhaus Latta

Alexis Mabille

Tea Rose

Creatures of Comfort

Eudon Choi

Luisa Beccaria

Vionnet

Reds

In the fiery season we just sneaked a peak into, Reds were everywhere. An honorable mention goes to Oxblood which managed to stick around the runways from the current looks en vogue. The ones used with a heavy hand; however, were sharp Brick and Venetian Red.

Brick

Anna Sui

Ellery

Marchesa

Valentin Yudashkin

Venetian Red

Christian Siriano

Salvatore Ferragamo

Stella McCartney

Trussardi

 

Oranges

Sure to begin its domination the mere second Starbucks rolls out anything Pumpkin-Spiced, various shades of Orange have been pinned as key players for the upcoming season. Continuing its reign from fall/winter 2015/16, Rust has been joined by the more chromatic Red Orange.

Rust

Narciso Rodriguez

Y/Project

Diane von Furstenberg

3.1 Phillip Lim

Red Orange

Zoe Jordan

Mulberry

Victoria, Victoria Beckham

Akris

Yellows

With an offered burst of pure saturated sunshine to runways, Chrome Yellow played into the cozy colors of the season quite nicely. The Orange-infused variety, Ochre also garnered some attention.

Chrome Yellow

Emilia Wickstead

Arthur Arbesser

Valentino

Dries van Noten

Ochre

Lemaire

Ulla Johnson

Whistles

Whit

Greens

You could make mean martini with all the Olives of this past fashion week. Varying from lighter to darker, the color was certainly making itself at home. Turning down the temperature a few degrees, we come to Rifle Green, and with that, a look at our cooler colors for the season.

Olive

Rochas

Bally

Carven

Rochas

Cool Contenders

Greens

An obvious tie-in for a season heavy in Military inspiration, Rifle Green made its return to the runway. This color borrows much of its identity from Army Green, but veers away from the Browned-finish.

Rifle Green

3.1 Phillip Lim

Andrew Gn

Babyghost

Zoe Jordan

 

Blues

Blues continued the trend of National Defence colors with a Darkened Air Force Blue. This steely color pairs well with its lighter Blue and Purple blended relative of the season; Cornflower Blue.

Air Force Blue

Arthur Arbesser

Celine

Loewe

Louis Vuitton

Cornflower Blue

Celine

Louis Vuitton

Michael Kors Collection

Milly

 

Purples

In a rare season of exposed Purple, the runways across New york, London, Milan and Paris all saw variants of Lilac from the brighter Rich Lilac to the demure French Lilac. Byzantine hiked up the intensity for maximum impact in Purples on the runways while bringing back a bit of warmth.

Rich Lilac

Carven

Kenzo

Michael Kors Collection

Miu Miu

French Lilac

Jill Stuart

Lanvin

Roksanda

Vetements

Byzantine

Lacoste

Salvatore Ferragamo

Haider Ackermann

Oscar de la Renta

 

Can’t Commit Colors

Greys

Greys never really leave the runways. In some capacity, grey always shows up. This season took it away from being just a “shade” and offered slight-color infusions from warm to cool in the lighter tones.

1205

Alberta Ferretti

Anrealage

BCBG Max Azria

David Koma

Emilia Wickstead

Rick Owens

Trussardi

 

Fall/winter 2016/17 promised to be full of dense color and rich textiles. If you’re not up to the challenge, rest assured – there’s always neutrals!

Remodelling The Model

www.louisboston.com

In an industry in which being “ugly pretty” books you the job, it’s shockingly hard to qualify for a spot doing your little turn on the catwalk. The standards for female modelling are prohibitively high, often seeking those below 25 on age and dangerously below 18 on BMI. Ethnicity is to fit a cookie cutter check box and mixed ethnicities are considered beautiful, but a casting confusion. Height must always exceed 5”7 and at that, prepare to be considered short.

Fashion shows globally host the most important people in industry from buyers to bloggers, editors to forecasters. There’s little margin for error. In order to keep the collections salable and generate heat, the clothing must do all the talking. And the voice better be booming. Here’s where the argument falls to the “classic” runway model – the three E’s; ease, enticement and ego. Though a sleek and polished show winds up presenting, it’s anything but calm backstage. Last minute switches, model no-shows, clothing rips and a myriad of other things can go wrong. Thus holding to one body type makes things run smoother. If one model doesn’t show, the dress can easily be thrown on someone else and fit more or less the same way. Wafer thin also means no billowing, no pulling and no bulging. This makes the clothing appear to be flawless in fit and entices buyers to want to bring the line in store come the next season. Glove fits coupled with proper design and trend equals high sell rates, good write-ups and a sky-rocketed reputation for the designer.

It may be time; however, to put the old model to bed so to speak. It’s a social media storm out here with thousands upon millions upon billions of images and videos being shared daily of real women. A barrage of selfie campaigns are replacing traditional ads; the implications of which are leading to the slow adoption of models that don’t fit the standard bill. Social apps and sites will demand more of today’s woman’s time, ensuring that she spend at least equal time staring at the faces of her friends as those of models. It’s about reality and an educated consumer willing those that dress her to not shame her for her shape, size, skin or anything else.

Integration of real world models is moving more rapidly through the moderate price market, but it appears Lincoln Center has opened its doors to a few models that redefine the standard. It may not be much, but No Hangers Barred is in full favour of any bias cut – badoom boom ch! Here’s a look at a few of the changing faces in industry that have rocked the catwalk during Fashion Week and made their mark in magazine spreads.

Diandra Forrest

thingsilike-rotex.blogspot.com

Proud African American model Diandra Forrest was born with Albinism. Though she was ridiculed in her youth growing up in the Bronx for her pale skin, Forrest has since found her niche from it. Her beautiful facial features blend uniquely with her pigmentation making her a striking choice for any runway. She has walked for Jean Paul Gaultier, VFiles and Vivienne Westwood and has lent her face to many editorial spreads.

Rain Dove

www.kubatbillot.com

With a completely androgynous look, Rain Dove seamlessly models both menswear and womenswear. Dove uses her modelling as a form of activism in promoting lack of gender specific clothing which appeals to  the anatomical values of an individual. Dove has been all over the NYFW scene walking for Malan Breton, Vivienne Hu and Rochambeau to name a few. We expect to see much more of her this September.

Jillian Mercado

www.elle.it

Born with Muscular Dystrophy, Jillian Mercado learned early on in her studies at The Fashion Institute of Technology that her industry wasn’t the most open-minded when it came to beauty. She sought to change that and has found quite a large amount of success. Major luxury retailer Nordstrom and denim designer Diesel have scooped up Mercado for fashion campaigns.

Elliott Sailors

nickystyles.com

Elliott Sailors started out on a very traditional path. She was a former beauty pageant contestant turned model and had always fit the model mould. As she aged, she learned how quickly the industry could turn on her. Menswear then called to her as a method of prolonging her career. She has walked for the likes of Vivienne Westwood, Rick Owens and Diesel Reboot.

Andreja Pejic

www.etonline.com

Claiming a new first in Fashion Week history, Andreja Pejic walked both the men’s and women’s runways for the same designers for FW15/16. Born Andrej, Pejic originated as an androgynous male model, who has changed her modelling parameters since transitioning. She emerged as one to watch with her compelling walk down the Giles runway in London. Previously, she had graced the runways of DKNY, Rick Owens and Jean Paul Gauliter in addition to appearing in numerous ad campaigns.

Carmen Dell’Orefice

www.ganzomag.com

83 years young and still making a splash. Talk about aging gracefully. Carmen Dell’Orefice refuses to quit as she continues to dominate the editorial world. She’s been featured in the pages of Harper’s Bazaar and Vanity Fair, taken the cover spot on Marie Claire, appeared in ad campaigns for designers such as El Libro Amarillo and Rouge and walked in shows for Marimekko and Narisol Ferrari. Bridge club be damned!

Myla Dalbesio

www.news.com.au

While plus size has made its way into some mainstream ads, it always seems to be too strongly a point of pride from the brands. Myla Dalbesio burned up her fair share of newsfeeds when her size 10 figure appeared in a Calvin Klein spread of size 0’s without a word of brand acknowledgement. The message spoke loud enough as is and the stunning model has since been featured in many editorials including a “Selfies in Spandex” spread on Vogue.com.

Jamie Brewer/Danielle Sheypuk

www.buzzfeed.com / www.naija.io

Two Fashion Week firsts came down the Carrie Hammer runway as part of her “role models, not runway models” campaign. American Horror Story  actress Jamie Brewer really got people talking as the first person with Down Syndrome to walk at NYFW. Similarly clinical psychologist Danielle Sheypuk captivated as she made her way down the runway in a wheelchair. Though modelling isn’t the future path for either of these ladies, we certainly commend their boldness in challenging the status quo last winter.

Winnie Harlow

www.fashiongonerogue.com

Born with Vitiligo, model Winnie Harlow is proving that beauty certainly can extend beyond symmetry and  the expected. Her skin discolouration hasn’t gotten in her way at all. This gorgeous and confident model has been the face of European brand Desigual and proved a perfect light-hearted choice for their polka dot campaign. Harlow has also walked for Diesel and has a promising career ahead.

Lea T

www.bigshocking.com

Transgender model Lea T has been hard at it for a while now, having become the face of Givenchy in 2010. She’s since covered much ground having been featured in many editorial spreads and campaigns including Benetton and Phillipp Plein. In 2014, Lea T claimed the rights to being the first openly transgender model to be the face of a cosmetics brand when she stepped into her role at Redken.

It would seem that brands adapting to the modern world have been getting their praises. Diesel, Rick Owens, Jean Paul Gaultier and Vivienne Westwood showing their ability to evolve with several of the above mentioned models have certainly taken their positive press as a result. If heads will turn and people will be talking, the clothing will certainly get its air time regardless of the body it hangs off of. Yes, there will be challenges to overcome. Perhaps more backup models should be on call. Clothing trials should be done ahead of time, but there is no reason we cannot adapt.

If ready-to-wear Fashion Week offerings are meant to be sold, why should they continue to be sold under false body pretences? If we truly must keep uniformity in some fashion shows, it should at least be restricted to the couture collections; those meant as an art form and purchased only rarely by the supremely wealthy. This is one mode of operation in need of a tweak!

Fall/Winter 2015/16 Trend Report

Fashion month fall/winter 2015/16 brought forth plenty to get us (almost) excited (enough) to skip over the warm seasons and jump over to September. Of course, the usual f/w suspects appeared once again; layering, rich jewel tones and cozy sweater fabric, but some innovation came through loud and clear as well. Good news is, most of the ins this season can likely be pulled together from the straggler items lining the lowest of all your drawers. Some trends picked up momentum from spring/summer 2015 with minor seasonal adjustments and others started anew entirely. From the wows to the whys, let’s have a look at our future “wish list” items.

Garments

Jumpsuits

Emanuel Ungaro / 1205

Full-length jumpsuits are back in a big way! Short length rompers appeared in the odd show, but the fan favorite definitely included pants. The upper side of the ensemble proved sleeves to be optional. From the bespoke perfect tailored look to the streetwear utility variety, onesies were taking down catwalks in all four cities.

Long Culottes

Rosie Assoulin / Tibi

While s/s15 was showing culottes at various lengths, the cooler months keep a little extra fabric. All lengths are still getting their air time though. The cuts go as low as a few inches above the ankle and as high as a few inches below the knee.

Wide Leg Pants

Loewe / Akris

For those not daring enough to show the wind even an inch of skin, wide leg pants with a non-obvious flare-out are also going big. These roomy tailored pants offer the dual benefits of movement and comfort.

Oversized Embellished Knit Sweaters

Adam Lippes / Delpozo

The fall and winter seasons always love a good spacious knit. This season tacked on a little extra knit in the form of 3D embellishments. In clear pattern and abstract, knits this season are even more inviting than usual.

Materials

Patchwork & Textile Collage

Etro / Joseph

Patchwork and compilation textiles offer a certain coziness during the cooler months of the year. From rigid tweed to supple velvet, lush fur to buttery silk, there was nearly nothing in the way of mixed fabric that wasn’t put into practice this season. A big favorite included the sweater collaged sweater; a stitched together student art project of the remnants of sweaters past.

Mixed Media Textiles with 3D Components

Chanel / Mary Katrantzou

Textiles are no longer a 2D concept, nor do they necessarily move in the expected “flowing” capacity. Egg carton spikes, metallic disks, plastic florals and a whole slew of fabric treatments took fashion design to the next level this season. The catwalk got a funky dose of part garment, part sculpture and at times, part robot.

Details

Metal Grommets

Emanuel Ungaro / Sonia Rykiel

The small metallic rings that are usually restricted to shoe lace holders and the soon to be laceless section of your hoodies have taken quite the departure from activewear. They’re showing up in all sizes and in all genres of fashion dress as major design detail.

Fringe

Lanvin / Leonard

Last season kickstarted the return of fringe as both a trim and main component. Showing up in the same capacity, fringe has taken a turn for the abstract. Fall fringe will be messily layered and unevenly distributed.

Fur Trim

Céline / Giambattista Valli

Arguably the biggest trend to come out of fw15/16 fashion month, fur trims were showing up in a scarily large percentage of shows. Of all different types and in all sorts of colors, fur lined everything from hoods to sleeves to the hems of flared pants.

Floating Feathers

Erdem / Rodarte

Feathers achieved an impressive feat this season; getting even lighter. The floating feather offers a delicateness and sophistication akin to 20’s glamour. Though not entirely limited, this embellishment mostly showed up on gowns and dresses.

Prints & Patterns

Folkloric Romanticism

Dries Van Noten / Vivienne Tam

Ornate folk prints were prevalent this season. Appearing in a mix of velvets and rigid upholstery fabrics, the prints hold a 30’s and 40’s interiors feel. With their warm color palette and elaborate trim accompaniment, the result is romantic and sensual clothing with a historical and costumed effect.

Geo Psychedelia

Issey Miyaki / Jonathan Saunders

Heavily geometric and dizzyingly colorful, 60’s and 70’s prints were the other top contenders this season. Though unstructured prints appeared as well, a heavy focus remained on clean symmetry and perfect pattern. Linear abstractions appeared as well for the more subdued geo prints.

Color

Teal & Peacock Blue

Costello Tagliapietra / Cushnie et Ochs

Time to dust off the old 80’s bridesmaid dresses. Teal has made its comeback. The variation between the slightly greener teal and the slightly bluer peacock is minimal in terms of what you can wear. The runway was in deep love with both.

Rust & Burnt Orange

  Kenzo / Balmain

Though the loud and proud vibrant orange was a player this season, burnt orange and the slightly deeper rust made even more of a dent on the show lists. Contributing to an all around desert hue palette for the month, these colors will likely be swarming the store racks in a few months time.

Shades of Cognac

 Salvatore Ferragamo / Hunter Original

Taking the rust trend and veering closer to the neutral scale, cognac offered a replacement to most browns this season. Of course deep chocolate brown still had to rear its head, but from lighter to darker, cognac seemed to cover most bases.

Wine

Hellessy / Jil Stuart

They may be withholding of the alcohol content, but wine hues coming down the runways this season were every bit as decadent and delicious. The depth of the color made it an ideal color pop as much as it could pass as a near neutral.

Ready. Set. Shop!

*Note: All images courtesy of style.com

Paris Fashion Week Roundup

The final week of fashion shows is behind us for the fall/winter 2015/16 season. What a season it was from the heavily architectural pieces to soft flowing drapery, the sweetheart neutrals to rich desert hues and all the incomprehensible styling imaginable. Whether you tuned in for the artful designs or the histrionics of it all, I’m confident you were not disappointed. While the Valentino show made the loudest statement of the season in announcing that Hansel is once again “so hot right now” for Zoolander 2, there was plenty of magnificent bold fashion worth reporting on. Let’s dive right in!

Whole Collections of Cool

Christian Wijnants

 style.com

Christian Wijnants offers a unique twist on soft clothing with his FW15/16 collection. Flowing garment structure, pastel colors and sheer delicate textiles are paired with frayed edge patchwork, a few grimmer hues and dense rigid fabrics to toughen up his looks.

The mainstays of the collection are shift dresses done in mixed prints with layered textile detailing, slim fit skirts in floral geo prints and robe coats. Overcoats and boxy tees also occupied valuable runway real estate.

Wijnants’ ready-to-wear looks stand out most; however, for their unique custom-made textiles. A compilation of different textiles come together to create wearable art mixing clean cut with fringe, sheer with opaque and print with solid in a geometric maze of material.

style.com

The palette for the show merges whites, light greys, chick yellows and powder blues with the vibrant corals and peacock blues and the bleaker olives, blacks, charcoals and wines. The effect is an astounding contrast and looks that are striking in their originality.

Styling is left simple with no jewelry to be spoken of. Each outfit is accompanied by a pair of ankle or mid-calf round toed boots in pastel colors. Hair is straightened and parted on the far right and lips are hit with a bright red leaving the rest of the face to look natural.

Chalayan

style.com

Utility dominates the Chalayan runway with looks for both men and women. While bursts of tailoring and glamour peak through, a general theme of funky functionality gleans most of the attention.

Baggier overalls worn hanging loose at the hip are a show essential. Worker pants, rigid boxy jackets, tailored blazers with fur trim, and mixed media deconstructed gowns are also major players.

Geo prints and the use of metallics against dark neutrals prove visual stimulants. The mix of utility and glamour both in fabrics and silhouette are what really sets the show apart. Chalayan severs components of his garments to force them back together with rigged hardware reminiscent of curtains. Fringe work and abstract art creativity can be found as well amongst some of the pieces in the collection.

style.com

An almost entirely neutral palette focuses on charcoal grey, black, white, tan and cream. Several pieces focus on teal or pink beige. Gold, silver and bronze appear as accent colors towards the end of the show along with red.

Black patent booties are on the feet of most models with a few sand patent sandals in the mix. Cloche hats offer a dash of 20’s charm to some of the looks while other models simply have straightened hair parted in the middle for a severe utility look. Makeup is meant to appear mostly natural with only some powder blue highlighting at the eyes.

Because Anyone Can Be Ordinary

Aganovich

style.com

Aganovich brings forth something a little different this fashion week with a collection seemingly inspired by a cross between vintage YSL and Disney villains. Heavily architectural garments blend Victorian corset fit with bulk, layering and impossibly high pointed collars.

The collection focuses on variants of suiting with pants, skirts, vest, blazers and overcoats. Masculine pieces have been reimagined for women’s bodies and met with a dose of deconstructed brilliance.

The layering of both garments and textiles creates a volume counter to the tight fit of the underlying garments. The effect is a dramatic one lending the experience of a period-blended film of Oscar-worthy status.

style.com

A sombre palette focuses primarily on black, white, light grey, navy and deep cognac in a mix of textures and simple prints. Hints of red can be seen as well.

Styling includes natural makeup, messy pulled back ponytails and canvas shoes. Rounded brim fedoras appear in the show’s lineup as well.

Rick Owens

style.com

Although slightly on the side of robotic (with a little extra thanks to the makeup), Rick Owens delivers another collection that simply must be branded as “cool”. Heavily architectural pieces are paired with simple drapery in creating avant garde looks that  are somehow still true to the ready-to-wear category.

Tunic tops with cape necks are the clear must haves of the collection. Other key pieces include maxi skirts, puffer coats and pointed asymmetrical zip-up sleeveless tops.

Detail is what truly shines on this runway offering subtle suggestions of glamour. Sequins and fur fringe are unexpected from Owens, but definitely play a crucial role in stringing together all of the looks. Textures like supple suede, rigid canvas and heavily quilted nylon all work together surprisingly well. Though print in the true sense is minimal, a heavy geometric focus caries through from start to end.

style.com

All neutrals came down the catwalk including black, grey, taupe, olive, tan, navy, brown and hints of metallics. The subtle hue variations on the neutrals; however, creates the illusion of color at times.

Ankle booties, studded over the knee boots and tall gladiator boots are the main footwear focus. Hair is sleeked back tight. Makeup varies from completely natural, to dramatic black under-eye makeup to complete silver or gold faces adorned with spikes.

Styled and Filed Under Strange Love

Maison Margiela

 style.com

Under the new direction of John Galliano, Maison Margiela goes all out with the styling of the fw15/16 show. Though the collection itself is an aesthetically pleasing mix of the 20’s, 60’s and 90’s, the hair and makeup is something more akin to a cheap carnival clown.

Neon colors dominate the faces of models with overdrawn coral lips and a mix of turquoise and orange racoon eyes. Some of the girls get the “subdued” look with over the top (times 20) black cat-eye makeup. Hair is either heavily teased, or colored boldly and tucked under a funky Blossom inspired hat or beret. Necks get neon yellow floral corsages. Lucky feet get slipped into stunning ombred pointed toe sandals. Other models are sporting slippers akin to the abominable snowman feet.

Perhaps the weirdest of it all; however, os the stances of the models. Some carry tan grocery style bags as if pulling off a heist and others hunch their way down the runway appearing creature-like and overall odd.

Givenchy

 style.com

Givenchy steps more than a few feet away from its usual subdued styling for this moustachioed and bedazzled runway. Clothing in the collection favors romanticism with folkloric prints, lush velvet fabric, fur trims and flowing feminine silhouettes. The styling; however… not so much!

The hair is pulled back into thin stranded pigtail braids bringing to mind leiderhosen. Bangs are gelled to the forehead in twists and twirls looking as though the monopoly man’s moustache skidded up the face a good 2.5 inches, flipped over and made its way to Paris Fashion Week.

Though makeup itself is a non-issue, studs are all over the models faces appearing as tear drops, chin rings, cheek rings and of course, plenty of large earrings. Each model gets a moustache, though some are more bling than basic.

With all that going on up top, footwear is left to simple pointed toe mid-calf boots in neutral leather.

Looks We Won’t Soon Forget

Paco Rabanne

                                                      style.com

Taupe has never looked so striking as it does coming down the Paco Rabanne PFW catwalk. This mixed media look blends opaque with sheer and 2D with 3D as it plays with the rules of geometry.

Though the silhouettes both on top and bottom are nothing crazy, the textile work is something to marvel at with plasticized spikes coming off the mid-calf pant flare!

Kenzo

                                                      style.com

Once again, Kenzo delivers beautiful athleisure with a hit of the unexpected. An aymmetrical tunic top slashed with the classic track suit stripe filters into a metallic emerald floral print  skirt which rests above pants that follow  its lead. Paired with leather gloves, a riding hat and head scarf, the look channels equestrian chic perfect for resortwear. Perhaps born to the wrong season, this look still begs to be part of my wardrobe.

Well, that’s a wrap on fashion month fall/winter 2015/16. We’ve seen it all from the wonderful to the wonderfully wacky (Comme Des Garçons… really….). Hope you’ve all enjoyed reading my thorough assessments week by week. Check back soon for a full trend report covering all four weeks of fashion!

Milan Fashion Week Roundup

Another perfect week of fashion is behind us. Three cities in and the trends seem to be falling neatly into place. That macrotrend report will be coming your way in a few weeks time. For now, let’s have a closer look at what came our way from the Italian runways this fall/winter 2015/16 ready-to-wear fashion week.

Collection Perfection

Trussardi

style.com

Trussardi came out strong this season with a leather finish to her usual dose of militarism meets minimalism. Fabric play of sheen to matte offered all the drama the collection needed while allowing the pieces to stand out for their sporty chic tailoring.

Key pieces in the collection included tapered pants, cropped jackets, jumpsuits both with and without sleeves, patchwork sweaters in heavy sweater material and simple sheath dresses.

Details such as fold-over waistbands and exaggerated rounded lapel rolls were pivotal to Gaia Trussardi’s sticking the landing. The real star of the show; however, was her fabric choice. Loose stitch velvety knits and chunky cable knits provided a lightened relief to dramatic leathers in a movable glove-like leather.

style.com

The collection’s palette was true to its modernist aesthetic with dense colors and a host of neutrals including several shades of grey, sumptuous chocolate browns, cafe au lait, sand, deep emerald, forest green, prussian blue and bronze.

Styling choices really held the clothing together with twisted and knotted low-hanging up dos and deep purple lips. Belts appeared as part of the collection and matched the shows v-opening ankle booties.

Etro

style.com

Pretty in prints as per usual! Veronica Etro did not stray far from her bottom line with this stunning collection of folkloric prints in exotic desert hues. Though florals and paisley play a part, the emphasis was clearly on geo prints and patchwork. In a way that only Etro can pull off, the collection was pure organized chaos!

The interiors inspiration was felt throughout the loud prints, leaving simplicity of shapes and subduing the sex appeal. Peakaboo slits were seen in the collection’s key long-sleeve jumpsuits. Also crucial to Etro’s fw15 ready-to-wear line are overcoats, vests, cropped bootleg trousers, floor-sweeping dresses in simple silhouettes and illusion pleated skirts.

Aside from the dazzling production of all the mixed prints, Etro threw in a little lustre every few pieces for a touch more wow-factor. Silhouettes were kept clean and simple to not fight with the bold textiles.

style.com

Colors were all over the map with this dreamy paint set collection of chroma. The subtle neutrals of sand, brown, grey, taupe and black contrast the clay-based art colors of rust, orange, teal, peacock, mustard and wine.

Loose long locks were middle-parted and accompanied by clean makeup looks. Metal based chokers rested on the necks of the models. Footwear consisted of rounded and slightly square toed boots matching the palette of the looks.

Strange and Beautiful

Angelos Frentzos

 nowfashion.com

Though clearly eccentrically styled, Angelos Frentzos delivered some pretty ready-to-wear clothing. The collection is American sportswear meets 1920’s with a mix of silhouettes and textiles. Fringe and flapper overwhelm the beginning of the show, androgyny comes in midway with layered shorts and bombers and the show finished with feather embellishments merging the two styles into one.

Silhouettes were overall loose fitting with boxy skirt and short suits dominating the runway. Other key pieces included lounge-fit tunic shirts and A-line tube tops.

Geo prints factor in as well along with bird embellished textiles and colorful painterly micro blocks. Still, it’s the balance of texture that really sets the mood on the collection from the ribbed jackets to the feathered skirts.

 nowfashion.com

A palette consists mainly of black, white and grey, but with pops of multicolor and moments where red shines through.

Frentzos made a bold choice to block out the models faces with black baseball caps holding feathers in place. The decision to eliminate the model from the runway so to speak allowed the clothing to come up on its own merit. Other styling decisions were kept minimalistic with tied gladiator style sandals.

Jacquemus

style.com

Subtlety may not be the strong suit here, but artistic license is in full force. Jacquemus certainly got crafty for this collection that plays up the female form. For the purposes of keeping this PG, I’ve left off the countless looks that prominently feature the bare breast, but it’s likely the overalls pictured below will leave you with the main idea.

This piecework collection compiles what appear to be near scraps of fabric into composed pieces. There’s a healthy dose of drapery on the nondistinctive silhouettes. Loose and fluid would explain most including a dress meant to represent the human hand, misplaced sleeves with a mid-chest start point and pants with a waistline large enough for three.

If all of the outlandish traits weren’t enough, Jacquemus threw in a few extra details. Colorful metal grommets, asymmetric leg of mutton sleeves and overgrown knots finish looks in this bold collection.

 style.com

Somehow, amidst the insanity, a tasteful palette (slightly) reins it in. White, navy, black, tan, taupe and army green dominate with only mild peaks of orange, yellow and sky blue.

Styling in this collection is definitely worth noting with a half-face drawn onto some models’ cheeks to compensate for hair covering their right sides. Other faces were covered completely with round paper masks. With all that going on up above, it’s no wonder that footwear was left off altogether!

Skillful Styling

Luisa Beccaria

style.com

Luisa Beccaria presented a collection perhaps better fit for the Parisian runways with her stunning vintage French styling. Elbow length gloves and berets offer a softness complimentary to the collection that’s supremely feminine in its form fitting silhouettes and delicate feathered and printed detail. Fishnet tights and a deep burgundy lip give an vixen-like toughness to the looks, offering a hardened contrast equipped for modern Italian women.

Marco de Vincenzo

style.com

Slips of color were crucial to both the collection and styling of Marco de Vincenzo’s fw15 rtw collection. With multicolored strips lining of much of his collection, Vincenzo used styling to highlight the effect. Rainbow rounded glasses came down the catwalk on some models while others wore color saturated puff satin braided sandals. Plastic chain-linked belts also set the standard for this psychedelic 70’s meets futuristic collection.

On My Wish List

Nº 21

                                                       style.com

Nº 21 just got this one right with the variant monochromatic palette and the contrasting layers and textures. From the boiled wool sand colored coat to the cafe au lait lingerie inspired satin dress adorned over pants, it’s layers the way we all wish we could pull them off!

Tod’s

                                                       style.com

There’s something so striking about the perfect white blouse. With a jacket fit and styling, this thin piece breaks all the expectations for outwear. Paired with a digitized geo print pleated leather skirt, this look is the under the radar chic we’ve come to associate with Tod’s.

Well ¾’s of fashion month is behind us and we’ve seen a great deal worth justifying an elaborate clothing budget. Paris fashion week is in full swing at the moment. Click here to live stream some shows. Otherwise, check back in a few days to read up on the final triumphs of fw15 rtw!

London Fashion Week Roundup

Well, London Fashion Week came and went rather quickly. The five day fashion frenzy brought its fair share of excitement and drama. From the eerily quirky model walks at the Giles show to the blogger crashing the final model walk at Jean-Pierre Braganza, marvellous curiosities were everywhere. Not the least of which, why did Cara trade in walking Topshop Unique for a frow seat with Kendall Jenner? Alas, some mysteries are better left unsolved. Instead, I think I’ll direct our focus on the fashions themselves. The sweet, sweet glorious fashion.

Covetable Collections

J. JS Lee

theglassmagazine.com / katiechutzpah.com

The magic of J. JS Lee’s fall/winter 2015/16 collection begins with the styling of a pageboy-bowl cut mashup and an orangey red lip. This strikingly simple look bounces brilliantly off of the minimalist clean aesthetics coming down her catwalk. A cheeky tailoring theme throughout features sewing details such as mock needles gathering fabric and visible threading. Beyond the structured garments; however, is a softening that comes from this season’s trim of choice; fur.

The collection is very dress heavy with sheaths, shifts and sleeved/sleeveless trapeze cuts showing up throughout. Overcoats play an important role as do cinched waist trousers and slouchy turtleneck sweaters.

theglassmagazine.com / katiechutzpah.com

The color palette is subdued with blacks, whites and greys at the forefront. Blush weaves its way in and out, always on a canvas of fur. Limited geo prints in the collection bring a yellowed gold color as well as rhodolite. Full collection here.

Mother of Pearl

style.com

Classic American sportswear took a turn for the better with romantic prints, luxe color combinations and textural interplay at the Mother of Pearl show. Combinations of furs, leathers, taffetas, perforated textiles and sheer fabrics allow for simplistic loose fitting silhouettes.

Key pieces in the collection include bomber jackets, raglan coats and bespoke suiting with an urban twist.

style.com

A warm color palette for the collection includes many seasonal favorites including dusty pink, deep chocolate brown, camel, cognac, deep teal, mustard and orange. Pale yellow and pea green guest star briefly in a gingam print. Finally, a lesser dose of the standard black, white and navy are included throughout. For the full collection, check out style.com.

Sublime, with a Side of Eccentricity

Christopher Kane

style.com

Mostly in the realm of wearable, Christopher Kane’s FW15/16 collection holds its eccentricity in its encompassing of the human form (and I’m not talking about sharp tailoring). Prints inspired by a woman’s body fly off the dresses in a fringe-like fashion. Cameos live in vibrant colored velvet. Even nudity is included in smaller details, making the avant garde pieces more of an art tribute than wearable works.

style.com

Pieces not dealing in anatomy; however, are still playful with fabric “scribble” style strips. The balance of the collection is entirely pret-a-porter with stunning bespoke suiting and mid-waist dresses. Click here for the full collection.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label

  style.com

True to her persona, Vivienne Westwood styled this catwalk in the most peculiar of ways with red and black paint fight style makeup and neck hugging braided hair cozies. The clothing; however, need not such drama to stand out. Fantastical silhouettes play up volume and geometric shapes as they turn heads over and over again. Wallpaper florals are paired with tweed plaids, leg of mutton pants paired with multicolored fringe trimmed leg warmers, Yin Yang cut blazers with origami neck ties and dress capes are given massive hoods. This is not a collection for the faint of heart.

 style.com

Still within the absurdity is a glimmer of “I’d love to get my hands on that Westwood jacket”. Severing the looks and breaking them down by item leaves just the right amount of bold statement piece. Menswear silhouettes in womenswear fabrics and colors are also offered in this collection for the lighter touch. See full collection here.

Strange and Spot on Styling

Ashish

style.com

So here’s a collection that absolutely oozes grunge with a side helping of sex. 90’s patchwork, hardware, rhinestones, camo print and acid washed tie-dye denim are all over this collection. Add in sequin heavy lingerie for outdoor wear and Ashish’s (likely) accidental nod to Broadway’s Kinky Boots and you’ve got a proper SHOW. Whether or not the word “fashion” should be its prefix is still up for debate. One thing is for certain though; the styling was right on the money. Two-toned hair featured puffy front bangs and messy half-dos in back. Lips were all given a hit of the same vibrant red featured throughout the collection. Love it or hate it, the styling really did channel Courtney Love in its intended fashion. See more of the wonderful insanity here.

Marques’Almeida

style.com

For a collection full of frayed edge denim, tinfoil dresses and layer-heavy drapery, Marques’Almeida’s fresh out of the pouring rain styling somehow works. Hair is near glued to the models’ faces with a streaky greased up appearance and eyeliner has melted dramatically as if post-breakup. Is it beautiful? Certainly not, but then neither is the literal interpretation of streetwear collection. Various pieces teeter on wearable, but the overall feel is much more MOMA than it is MET. See all the looks from the runway here.

Future Items in My Dream Wardrobe

Jean-Pierre Braganza

                                                      style.com

Pairing Jean-Pierre Braganza’s thematic origami shapes with a minimalist overall silhouette made this piece a standout. A neutral palette of navy and white is livened by a sleek silver in forming an uneven stripe print. Sporty, yet classic and elegant in its own right, this piece would be welcome in most any wardrobe without causing a stir. See more elaborate pieces from the same collection here.

Mary Katrantzou

                                                       style.com

Mary Katrantzou offered a completely unique collection at this season’s London Fashion Week with mixed media looks. Well beyond the standard textural blends, Katrantzou took her textiles to the next level with foam triangles, ruffled plastic elements, metallic disks and paisley embossed leather. While the entire collection is certainly worth a glance, this shift coat dress is at the top of my LFW want list. Matted and glossed feathers lead into wool-covered foam blocks followed by sparkling paisley embroidery all in a sophisticated fall palette. Completely unlike anything else out there, this piece has serious pass down to your future granddaughter potential.

Two cities down, two to go! Milan Fashion Week is well underway on day one. Check in next week for another roundup.

New York Fashion Week Round Up

Alright devout readers. As you all know, tonight is the final night of New York Fashion Week fall/winter 2015/16. Before we cross the pond to London tomorrow, I thought we were due in for a little show reviewing. The real trend talk will be coming up post-Paris fashion week, but little macro trend seeds will be planted throughout my weekly roundups for those who simply can’t wait. First we’re going to look at shows that are so good, they remind us why we follow fashion. Then we’re going to peer into some incredible styling choices. We’ll take a look at a few all around favorite pieces and of course, finish with a few shows that remind people who don’t follow fashion why they shouldn’t.

Collections Worth Committing Crimes

Jonathan Simkhai

    style.com

Caged, crackled, weeded and woven, Jonathan Simkhai’s fw15 collection was streetwear at its absolute finest. A variety of textures intermix from supple knits to a fine sheer mesh as they play off a multitude of geo prints.

Boxy tops and slim fit skirts make up major silhouettes in this collection. Crop tops of various lengths also occupied prime real estate on that runway with many peak a boos and sheer panels.

   style.com

The color palette favored blacks, whites and greys with hints of sheer olive, peach, light ancient pink and taupe.

Yigal Azrouël

 style.com

On the more sophisticated side of streetwear, Yigal Azrouël takes traditional bespoke suiting for women and redefines it into menswear cuts with funky geo and linear prints. The collection flawlessly mixes prints, silhouettes and cutouts in a wholly alluring visual puzzle.

Key items include oversized menswear cut vests and printed bomber jackets. Asymmetrical dresses shy one sleeve were also big players this season.

 style.com

Another subdued palette, Azrouël focused on black, white, shades of grey and silver. As a major seasonal color for fw15, teal made it onto a few items of this collection alongside cherry oak and chocolate brown.

Styling That Makes a Statement

Nicholas K

    style.com

In addition to a billowy perfection collection, Nicholas K makes it on this list for his 40’s aviation styling. With rounded sunnies reminiscent of flying goggles and vintage pilot hats, models on this catwalk seemed to resurrect and modernize the amazing Amelia Earhart.

Marchesa

    style.com

Watch out Daisy Buchanan, Marchesa models are definitely stepping on your turf! Flapper dresses, pearls and 20’s styling made for decadent runway of old Hollywood glam. Dark sultry lips were paired with pinned back fingerwaves on all models strutting down the runway.

A Few Perfect Pieces

Idan Cohen

                                                      wgsn.tumblr.com

Delicate, sophisticated and completely ethereal, this is the dream ballerina dress that my fairy godmother would bestow on me if the time ever came that I should head to my pumpkin.

3.1 Phillip Lim

                                                      style.com

Grungry in the best possible way, this look pairs bespoke suiting with an oversized trench to show why layers exist. In a sumptuous palette of muted half-tones with just the right amount of print, this simple look really drives the point home.

It Wouldn’t Be NYFW without the Weird

Hood by Air

    style.com

We’ve come to expect it, but this may be at a new level. Androgyny is often a plus in the fashion world, but when difficulty goes into deciphering the genders on the runway, we may have pushed a tad too far. Deconstructed garments, puffer… well… everything, garments shuffling their rightful place on the human body and nylon stocking face masks. This is one for the history books.

Degen

    printallover.me / newnownext.com

From breast oriented design details to asymmetric makeup looks that bring to question if the models have had strokes, this collection is less than normal. While I certainly applaud the decision to bring on (real) plus size models, there is something to be said for fit…

That’s a wrap on NYFW FW15! Check back in a few days time for a rundown on the London offers.