Trend Report: Met Gala 2016 – Manus x Machina

robots-2
Met Gala 2016 greeters wearing Courrèges & Paco Rabanne

Where the theme was set on fashion in the age of technology, it’s no surprise that many interpreted the mode of dress to be futuristic. Gowns were formed of metallics, robotic panels and even lighting fixtures.

The Balmain army presented ever-strong, Versace clothed some of the most cyborg-heavy looks of the night and Nicolas Ghesquière stole a few wins for Louis Vuitton. The riling success of Met Gala 2016 has left this manus to her machina in order to get word of the trends out stat.

Silver City

Kevlar was the word of the night with loose interpretations by each designer. Varied shades of silver were treated every which way from fringed to patterned to bull body sequins. Silhouettes came in many forms. Cindy Crawford adorned a body-hugging Balmain gown. Lauren Santo Domingo went for a shift dress by Giambattista Valli, while Naomi Watts sought out Burberry for a body-molded strapless floor-sweeper.

Aerated Elegance

Textural mesh was another major trend on the Red (& Cream & Salmon) Carpet. Perhaps a suggestive glance into the hard-wiring of the night’s tech theme, these gowns showed skin in all the right places. Keeping with the metallics trend, Kylie Jenner wore Balmain, while Ciara went Art Deco with H&M. Kendall Jenner stood out in a blue and white gown by Atelier Versace.

Manus vs. Manus

The night’s unexpected styling choice was at the hands of Nicolas Ghesiquère, who accompanied three of his Louis Vuitton looks with full-on combat boots. Battle was indeed in the air, but the best dressed victor came through apparent in Michelle Williams with her rigid mini-dress.

Light-Wait

Where would a night of fashion and tech be without a few wearables? While heart monitors and step-counters weren’t the right tone for the evening, twinkle lights were all the rage. Zac Posen had Claire Danes emanate Cinderella both pre and post lighting show.

Marchesa, with the help of IBM, gave Karolina Kurkova a floral garden gown awash in subtle dreamy lighting. Her ethereal look garnered attention on the Red Carpet, but truly earned its “oohs and aahs” inside the Met where the dimness allowed a transformation.

Poison Pout

Beauty standouts of the night yielded to those with deeply venomous lips. Co-host of the night, Taylor Swift, continued to sport the moody pout she’s newly adapted alongside her Louis Vuitton cutout dress. Brie Larson, wearing Proenza Schouler, and Katy Perry drew in the paparazzi with their unusual bruting aesthetics. Katy Perry made sure to keep a little levity, accompanying her Prada gown with a Tamigotchi. Perry’s makeup look was that of her own new collection for Cover Girl – Perry Panther lipstick and Perry Blue mascara.

US-ARTS-FASHION-ENTERTAINMENT-GALA-MET GALA
Until next year, Chanel chic Anna Wintour bids you adieu!

Designers Reimagine the Future of Sport in 2040 at Arizona State University

Running man polygonal
Emerge 2016: The Future of Sport 2040 logo

Arizona State University will be hosting the fifth annual edition of its Emerge festival tomorrow – an occasion that will bring together the minds of artists, scientists, storytellers, engineers, dancers, roboticists, ethicists and athletes, in creating an imagined future.

Designed to cater to a crowd of innovators and forward thinkers, the focus this year is on “The Future of Sport 2040”. The carnival atmosphere will allow for a wholly interactive experience from advanced robotics demonstrations to group TED talks with influencers from an array of industries.

Topics will include the future of cheating, the future of big data, super-cyborgs and athletes in outer space. The future of performance-wear will also play a major role, with a runway set up in the Wells Fargo Arena to convey the work of 10 designers. Concept pieces created especially for the occasion will be on show, presenting the impact of future technologies through explanations by an emcee in place of such functionality yet being possible. Once the looks have been modelled, they will take to a podium for further observation and designer Q&A.

Arizona designer Angela Johnson and Project Runway participant Emily Payne were both involved. As the owner of LabelHorde – a hub for manufacturing, design services, co-working, education and more – Johnson took the helm on rounding up designers to participate.

Angela-Johnson
Multi-purpose sport look by Angela Johnson

To see some of the futuristic sketches and read more on the future of sports in 2040, head on over to Fashion & Mash.

The Emperor’s New Vetements

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Sarah Synder in Vetements

We’ve seen this story unfold before. The emperor, in search of a most covetable collection, adorns a rather pricey suit of nothingness after being told it was an invisibility look of the highest prestige.

The saga continues with the fashion industry’s latest wunderkind – Vetements. If you’ve noticed a surge in chrome yellow DHL t-shirts lighting up your Instagram feed, your network has already fallen for the creative forces of Demna Gvasalia.

Art imitates life. Life imitates art. Satire stakes its claim.

Slouchy sweaters and obtuse references to pop culture make up the so-called “inspired” collections. The mainstay of the brand; however, is it’s complete unapologetic lack of exceptional qualities. Even the label’s name dresses up the ordinary with an expensive price tag – “clothing” branded in sleek Français.

If we’re willing to accept the conclusion that this is an era marked by all-accepting malleability, then satire dress presents as the perfect zeitgeist.

But where is the start point in customizing clothing to the minutia of daily life? The idea wells from which fashion creatives pull their must-haves often run far too deep for the consumers to glean insights. Still, shoppers fight their ways to the top of waitlists to quite literally buy into the product concepts.

Vetements Champions
Vetements spring/summer 2016

If a 2015 well-branded rewrite on my father’s 1998 Champions tracksuit can now sell for top dollar, then perhaps the joke truly is on the consumer. And at that darling meet point of comedy and clothing, comes Vetememes, the perfect lampoon of our subject label.

Vetememes
Vetememes collection

A slight tweak in the name references meme culture and the nature of dissemination, while it aptly shadows the French word for “same”. The meta brand currently retails its namesake rain jacket for $59 – an $121 drop from the actual Vetements rain jacket. Brand name aside, both versions rival the $20 Walmart buy of your summer camp days. The cycle goes on.

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Gigi Hadid & Kendall Jenner wearing Anya Hindmarch fall/winter 2016/17

Of course, Vetements doesn’t own the market on off-handed referential fashion. Jeremy Scott’s got a soft spot for cartoons, Anya Hindmarch favors vintage arcade games and cereal mascots, while Moschino dips into the fast food market and cleaning cupboards. Spoof seems to hold appeal; distinguishing itself from other fashion buys while maintaining a degree of recognition to the consumer.

As the “effortless bed head” of the sartorial world, this subset of dress begs the wearer to pay more to appear to care less. And while quality and cut has long been used as justification in overpaying for a plain white tee, few could argue the non-status merit in a couture courier shirt.

I’d long to catch the moment in which a DHL truck double parks in front of a brown-stone while delivering the much anticipated t-shirt. Our shopper, opening the door stripped bare as our emperor, signs away her originality while holding a glass of designer wine in her free hand.

 

Fall/Winter 2016/17 Trend Report

Trends fw16

If fashion once worked in defined clockwork cycles, this season is proving the fluidity of today’s runways and trends. While two of our dominant themes prevail from the ’70s, the rest of our designers are spanning the timeline making pitstops in every decade (skip the 1950s) from the ’20s through the late ’90s.

Unique designer inspirations from the late David Bowie to Tim Burton’s cult classic Beetlejuice leave the runways teaming with a striking contrast of wearable garments to obscene styling.

While some collections prove comically avant-garde *cough, cough Comme Des Garcons*, the bulk of the productions put drool-worthy context to the term “ready to wear”.

Leisured Sophisticate

Whether it’s the Studio 54 gold lamé deep-v fitted jumpsuit or the olive green velveteen leisure suit resting a top a paisley pointed collar shirt, the 1970’s is a time period full of audacious dressing. For fall/winter 2016/17, looks hop right off the tour buses of the Vinyl decade from the rockers themselves straight through to the girls that swoon at their feet. Daily leisure to nightly lavishness, the trends endure.

The details: Suedes, crushed velvets, corduroys, chenilles, silks and lamés make up the luxuriousness of this era of dress. Muted-half tones are often paired with highly bold color calling to vibrancy of the decade. Pattern is not something designers shy away from, dipping lightly into the trends of the decade prior. Lessening the psychedelia, and upping the sophistication with softer folkloric prints, the ’70s is marked by the beginning of decadence in fashion and lifestyle.

Another major change coming out of the seventies is the start of “sexy”. Plunging neck lines, tight fitting turtleneck sweaters, hot pants, cinched waists – it’s all about showing off the body. Fit-and-flare dominates  with the bell sleeve and bell bottom at the helm of most wardrobes.

A marker of societal change with the early start of the “career woman”, singular modes of dress for women are left behind. Skirts now come in three lengths; short, midi and maxi. Jumpsuits and high-waisted pants topped off by massive belt buckles are the height of popularity.

*Accessories note: The beveled-square toe platform boot is back and it’s begging for a dig through mom and dad’s record collection for some Nancy Sinatra. These boots were made for walkin’ and they’re doing it from ankle booties through to thigh-highs.

*Beauty note: The shag rests atop most heads in this trend, with the odd break for an obvious Farah Fawcett flip.

Prairie Savant

If rocker socialite defines the first ’70s trend, Prairie Savant is the sweet and naive cousin visiting for the week from South Dakota. This trend occupies the softer side of the ’70s as it is categorized by the rural muting of modes of dress, the step back from the rise to self-indulgence and an inclination to stick to a strongly feminine aesthetic.

The Details: Thin cottons, sheers, linens, laces, satins and tulles make up the fabric selection on these delicate garments. Softer hues and washed out floral prints bring a delicate beauty to the long-flowing garments. Primarily maxi frocks, the prairie look is one easily identified by the mass of ruffles.

Hints of romanticism sweep through this trend with ruffled collar bibs, cape build-ins and flouncing details that key in the English Rose aesthetic. Ruffles appear in all forms from lining dresses and maxi skirts to dangling at the high-hip of a loose fitting bohemian blouse.

Recalling the first decade to touch upon the prairie-look, the ’30s leg of mutton sleeve offers body to the otherwise subdued trend. The effect is used at varying degrees allowing a designer to play around with the drama of the look. The female necktie also makes a reappearance offering a lighter segue into the trend without the risk of going matronly.

*Beauty note: Hair styles favor the tapered quiff, with an elevated semi-roll in front and the gelled front “greaser”.

Mawkish Escapism

The romance dips deeper into the historical waters with the Mawkish Escapism trend. Influences pull from the Renaissance era, touch upon the ’20s and even go darker with the 17th century coven-laden garments. This trend runs the gamut of poetic nostalgia, with draping and femininity as its mainstays.

The Details: Luxe textiles include velour, chantilly lace, brocade, georgette, damask and various other sheer fabrics. The use of textile contrast from the rigid to the flowing in a mass of jewel tones and blacks establishes a refined grandeur in the designs. At times touched with a chromatic abstract print, the opulence grows all the greater.

Feminine silhouettes hold a certain delicacy, even whilst the design elements go in a slightly villainous direction. Crumpled features, sheer elements, high collars, capes and a flare for the dramatics create a sense of intrigue taking the looks beyond the sickeningly sweet and into the realms of a compelling world ‘beyond’.

Though suiting, blouses and lengthier skirts can certainly fall into this category, gowns and cocktail dresses are the defining garments.

*Accessories note: Two shoes currently en vogue match up with this trend. The pointed-toe stiletto amps up the theatrics, while the ballerina shoe (flat or heeled) mutes the brooding right out of the ensemble.

*Beauty note: Styling takes even the softer looks in a moodier direction. Alternating emphasis, eyes are dark and graphic, while lips are going from berry all the way through black.

Alt. Eclecticism

Somewhere between the birth of punk music in the 1980’s and the grungy garage-band days of the 1990’s, streetwear came to be. The Alt Eclecticism trend blurs the lines of the two generations, mixing the electric with the apathetic and resulting in next-level layering. The looks seem to pair items haphazardly, but the aesthetic is punishingly “cool”. Vibing heavily on the underground art scene and channeling a disenfranchised youth, Alt. Eclecticism treats fashion unapologetically like it doesn’t matter (while making it look better than most).

The Details: Anything and everything goes so long as it’s layered, artfully cluttered and confidently adorned. Denim, leather, cotton, furs and rigid fabrics occupy valuable real estate on these catwalks. Palettes combine neutrals with pops of vibrant colors. Pattern is not common, though it is present in smaller doses.

Silhouettes borrow from sportswear, bordering on athleisure. With hints of heritage in the mix, the combination is wholly incongruent, but somehow works. Oversized, well-tailored, but deconstructed garments rest atop other oversized, well-tailored but deconstructed garments. The only nods to femininity fall in a few peaks of skin consistent with this season’s overall love of the conspicuous cutout.

Items on command include athletic puffer coats, tousled denim anything and sweatshirts.

*Accessories note: All is to be styled with the clunkiest of footwear, metal anything and a beanie.

*Beauty note:  Welcome back nude to browned lips, excessive (non-cat) eyeliner and spider mascara.

Militant Forces

As a (non-patriotic) tribute to the defence forces that protect and serve, the runways are once again cluttered with military influences. From the modern garb, to the ’40s looks that speak to a world at war, fall/winter 2016/17 climbs right into the trenches. Land, sky and sea are all targeted in color scheme and overall feel.

The Details: Boiled wool, suiting fabric, cotton, canvas, and fur accents support many of these pieces. Colors predominately settle in at Army greens, Navy/Air Force blues and the reds of the Queen’s Guard.

Construction is paramount to the Militant Forces trend. Rigid garments are still made flattering and their bulk is met with aesthetic purpose. Though silhouettes are less form-fitting, this season’s favorite cinched waist returns to bring back shape in a woman’s body.

Details include squared shoulders, epaulettes, tassels and hook-and-eyes. Though the trend is interpreted into wearable suits and dresses, the military jackets are the foundation of the trend.

*Accessories note: While some designers go literal, pairing their looks with military accessories such as the vintage Navy hat, others merely suggest structure with the additions of corset overlays.

City Scape

As another trend with a high focus on construction, City Scape delves into the world of Architecture. Clean lines are paired with drapery to evoke the feel of an urban city from the tallest sky-scrapers to the gentle arcs of the bridges. Minimalism is challenged to new heights where it can utilize layering and asymmetry to establish unexpected compilations.

The Details: Crisp linens, cashmeres, jerseys, cottons, suedes and peau de soie are the most frequent textile choices. Color palettes highly favor neutrals, with shades of white and grey dominating. Colors can be present as well, though they tend to be a focus point.

Silhouettes vary greatly, with the only commonality being elongating the body. Lines are very clear throughout these looks for the purpose of guiding the eye. Often these looks pair a highly structured garment with a lightly draped counterpart. The simplicity in the contrast leaves an overall concluding feel of effortless elegance.

Layered pieces prove open to all sorts of garments. The wide-leg pant and cross-over skirt take lead as trend “must-haves”.

*Beauty note: A continuation of the geometric form of the trend, hair is sleeked back with extreme left side-parts.

While some of the season’s contenders are not a “one style fits all”, there seems to be a little something wearable for everyone. Those afflicted with a hefty bust may stay away from the ruffled-bib of the Prairie Savant, but the necktie is an easy buy in. If you weren’t born into long supermodel legs, you could keep off the midi skirt and swap in the mini cross-over.

Whether you’re in search of a little whimsy or aiming to strike a look of elite luxury, the trends will accommodate. Perhaps most important is to recall the lack of boundary in today’s world of dress. If it fits, if it makes you happy… wear it! You can always find a way to roll it into a trend category with a good accessory closet and a keen eye for beauty.

 

Fall/Winter 2016/17 Color Report

Colors copy

As is typical of the cooler months of the year, clothing showed for fall/winter 2016/17 veered on the side of warmth. Rich hues were paired with lush inviting fabrics for clothing that begged to stave off spring a little while longer!

Though the palettes did include a smattering of cooler Blues and Purples, a common theme presented itself in the Reds family.

Warmth Winners

Pinks

Stepped away from the bleached hues of the spring/summer collections, Pinks showed on the catwalks this past fashion week were much richer. The big Kahuna of the season was undeniable Fuchsia, bursting bold color all around. On the softer side, the runways were infused with Salmon and its antiqued offshoot; Tea Rose.

Fashion Fuchsia

Salmon

Tea Rose

Reds

In the fiery season we just sneaked a peak into, Reds were everywhere. An honorable mention goes to Oxblood which managed to stick around the runways from the current looks en vogue. The ones used with a heavy hand; however, were sharp Brick and Venetian Red.

Brick

Venetian Red

 

Oranges

Sure to begin its domination the mere second Starbucks rolls out anything Pumpkin-Spiced, various shades of Orange have been pinned as key players for the upcoming season. Continuing its reign from fall/winter 2015/16, Rust has been joined by the more chromatic Red Orange.

Rust

Red Orange

Yellows

With an offered burst of pure saturated sunshine to runways, Chrome Yellow played into the cozy colors of the season quite nicely. The Orange-infused variety, Ochre also garnered some attention.

Chrome Yellow

Ochre

Greens

You could make mean martini with all the Olives of this past fashion week. Varying from lighter to darker, the color was certainly making itself at home. Turning down the temperature a few degrees, we come to Rifle Green, and with that, a look at our cooler colors for the season.

Olive

Cool Contenders

Greens

An obvious tie-in for a season heavy in Military inspiration, Rifle Green made its return to the runway. This color borrows much of its identity from Army Green, but veers away from the Browned-finish.

Rifle Green

 

Blues

Blues continued the trend of National Defence colors with a Darkened Air Force Blue. This steely color pairs well with its lighter Blue and Purple blended relative of the season; Cornflower Blue.

Air Force Blue

Cornflower Blue

 

Purples

In a rare season of exposed Purple, the runways across New york, London, Milan and Paris all saw variants of Lilac from the brighter Rich Lilac to the demure French Lilac. Byzantine hiked up the intensity for maximum impact in Purples on the runways while bringing back a bit of warmth.

Rich Lilac

French Lilac

Byzantine

 

Can’t Commit Colors

Greys

Greys never really leave the runways. In some capacity, grey always shows up. This season took it away from being just a “shade” and offered slight-color infusions from warm to cool in the lighter tones.

 

Fall/winter 2016/17 promised to be full of dense color and rich textiles. If you’re not up to the challenge, rest assured – there’s always neutrals!

Fall/Winter 2015/16 Trend Report

Fashion month fall/winter 2015/16 brought forth plenty to get us (almost) excited (enough) to skip over the warm seasons and jump over to September. Of course, the usual f/w suspects appeared once again; layering, rich jewel tones and cozy sweater fabric, but some innovation came through loud and clear as well. Good news is, most of the ins this season can likely be pulled together from the straggler items lining the lowest of all your drawers. Some trends picked up momentum from spring/summer 2015 with minor seasonal adjustments and others started anew entirely. From the wows to the whys, let’s have a look at our future “wish list” items.

Garments

Jumpsuits

EmanuelUngaro1 1205Emanuel Ungaro / 1205

Full-length jumpsuits are back in a big way! Short length rompers appeared in the odd show, but the fan favorite definitely included pants. The upper side of the ensemble proved sleeves to be optional. From the bespoke perfect tailored look to the streetwear utility variety, onesies were taking down catwalks in all four cities.

Long Culottes

RosieAssoulin1 Tibi1Rosie Assoulin / Tibi

While s/s15 was showing culottes at various lengths, the cooler months keep a little extra fabric. All lengths are still getting their air time though. The cuts go as low as a few inches above the ankle and as high as a few inches below the knee.

Wide Leg Pants

Loewe1 Akris1Loewe / Akris

For those not daring enough to show the wind even an inch of skin, wide leg pants with a non-obvious flare-out are also going big. These roomy tailored pants offer the dual benefits of movement and comfort.

Oversized Embellished Knit Sweaters

AdamLippes1 Delpozo1Adam Lippes / Delpozo

The fall and winter seasons always love a good spacious knit. This season tacked on a little extra knit in the form of 3D embellishments. In clear pattern and abstract, knits this season are even more inviting than usual.

Materials

Patchwork & Textile Collage

Etro1 Joseph1Etro / Joseph

Patchwork and compilation textiles offer a certain coziness during the cooler months of the year. From rigid tweed to supple velvet, lush fur to buttery silk, there was nearly nothing in the way of mixed fabric that wasn’t put into practice this season. A big favorite included the sweater collaged sweater; a stitched together student art project of the remnants of sweaters past.

Mixed Media Textiles with 3D Components

Chanel1 MaryKatrantzou1Chanel / Mary Katrantzou

Textiles are no longer a 2D concept, nor do they necessarily move in the expected “flowing” capacity. Egg carton spikes, metallic disks, plastic florals and a whole slew of fabric treatments took fashion design to the next level this season. The catwalk got a funky dose of part garment, part sculpture and at times, part robot.

Details

Metal Grommets

EmanuelUngaro2 SoniaRykiel1Emanuel Ungaro / Sonia Rykiel

The small metallic rings that are usually restricted to shoe lace holders and the soon to be laceless section of your hoodies have taken quite the departure from activewear. They’re showing up in all sizes and in all genres of fashion dress as major design detail.

Fringe

Lanvin1 Leonard1Lanvin / Leonard

Last season kickstarted the return of fringe as both a trim and main component. Showing up in the same capacity, fringe has taken a turn for the abstract. Fall fringe will be messily layered and unevenly distributed.

Fur Trim

Celine1 GiambattistaValli1Céline / Giambattista Valli

Arguably the biggest trend to come out of fw15/16 fashion month, fur trims were showing up in a scarily large percentage of shows. Of all different types and in all sorts of colors, fur lined everything from hoods to sleeves to the hems of flared pants.

Floating Feathers

Erdem1 Rodarte1Erdem / Rodarte

Feathers achieved an impressive feat this season; getting even lighter. The floating feather offers a delicateness and sophistication akin to 20’s glamour. Though not entirely limited, this embellishment mostly showed up on gowns and dresses.

Prints & Patterns

Folkloric Romanticism

DriesVanNoten1 VivienneTam1Dries Van Noten / Vivienne Tam

Ornate folk prints were prevalent this season. Appearing in a mix of velvets and rigid upholstery fabrics, the prints hold a 30’s and 40’s interiors feel. With their warm color palette and elaborate trim accompaniment, the result is romantic and sensual clothing with a historical and costumed effect.

Geo Psychedelia

IsseyMiyake2 JonathanSaunders1Issey Miyaki / Jonathan Saunders

Heavily geometric and dizzyingly colorful, 60’s and 70’s prints were the other top contenders this season. Though unstructured prints appeared as well, a heavy focus remained on clean symmetry and perfect pattern. Linear abstractions appeared as well for the more subdued geo prints.

Color

Teal & Peacock Blue

CostelloTagliapietra1 CushnieetOchs1Costello Tagliapietra / Cushnie et Ochs

Time to dust off the old 80’s bridesmaid dresses. Teal has made its comeback. The variation between the slightly greener teal and the slightly bluer peacock is minimal in terms of what you can wear. The runway was in deep love with both.

Rust & Burnt Orange

Kenzo1 Balmain1 Kenzo / Balmain

Though the loud and proud vibrant orange was a player this season, burnt orange and the slightly deeper rust made even more of a dent on the show lists. Contributing to an all around desert hue palette for the month, these colors will likely be swarming the store racks in a few months time.

Shades of Cognac

SalvatoreFerragamo1 HunterOriginal1Salvatore Ferragamo / Hunter Original

Taking the rust trend and veering closer to the neutral scale, cognac offered a replacement to most browns this season. Of course deep chocolate brown still had to rear its head, but from lighter to darker, cognac seemed to cover most bases.

Wine

Hellessy1 JilStuart1Hellessy / Jil Stuart

They may be withholding of the alcohol content, but wine hues coming down the runways this season were every bit as decadent and delicious. The depth of the color made it an ideal color pop as much as it could pass as a near neutral.

Ready. Set. Shop!

*Note: All images courtesy of style.com

Paris Fashion Week Roundup

The final week of fashion shows is behind us for the fall/winter 2015/16 season. What a season it was from the heavily architectural pieces to soft flowing drapery, the sweetheart neutrals to rich desert hues and all the incomprehensible styling imaginable. Whether you tuned in for the artful designs or the histrionics of it all, I’m confident you were not disappointed. While the Valentino show made the loudest statement of the season in announcing that Hansel is once again “so hot right now” for Zoolander 2, there was plenty of magnificent bold fashion worth reporting on. Let’s dive right in!

Whole Collections of Cool

Christian Wijnants

christian-wijnants1 christian-wijnants2style.com

Christian Wijnants offers a unique twist on soft clothing with his FW15/16 collection. Flowing garment structure, pastel colors and sheer delicate textiles are paired with frayed edge patchwork, a few grimmer hues and dense rigid fabrics to toughen up his looks.

The mainstays of the collection are shift dresses done in mixed prints with layered textile detailing, slim fit skirts in floral geo prints and robe coats. Overcoats and boxy tees also occupied valuable runway real estate.

Wijnants’ ready-to-wear looks stand out most; however, for their unique custom-made textiles. A compilation of different textiles come together to create wearable art mixing clean cut with fringe, sheer with opaque and print with solid in a geometric maze of material.

christian-wijnants3 christian-wijnants4style.com

The palette for the show merges whites, light greys, chick yellows and powder blues with the vibrant corals and peacock blues and the bleaker olives, blacks, charcoals and wines. The effect is an astounding contrast and looks that are striking in their originality.

Styling is left simple with no jewelry to be spoken of. Each outfit is accompanied by a pair of ankle or mid-calf round toed boots in pastel colors. Hair is straightened and parted on the far right and lips are hit with a bright red leaving the rest of the face to look natural.

Chalayan

chalayan1 chalayan2style.com

Utility dominates the Chalayan runway with looks for both men and women. While bursts of tailoring and glamour peak through, a general theme of funky functionality gleans most of the attention.

Baggier overalls worn hanging loose at the hip are a show essential. Worker pants, rigid boxy jackets, tailored blazers with fur trim, and mixed media deconstructed gowns are also major players.

Geo prints and the use of metallics against dark neutrals prove visual stimulants. The mix of utility and glamour both in fabrics and silhouette are what really sets the show apart. Chalayan severs components of his garments to force them back together with rigged hardware reminiscent of curtains. Fringe work and abstract art creativity can be found as well amongst some of the pieces in the collection.

chalayan4 chalayan8style.com

An almost entirely neutral palette focuses on charcoal grey, black, white, tan and cream. Several pieces focus on teal or pink beige. Gold, silver and bronze appear as accent colors towards the end of the show along with red.

Black patent booties are on the feet of most models with a few sand patent sandals in the mix. Cloche hats offer a dash of 20’s charm to some of the looks while other models simply have straightened hair parted in the middle for a severe utility look. Makeup is meant to appear mostly natural with only some powder blue highlighting at the eyes.

Because Anyone Can Be Ordinary

Aganovich

aganovich1 aganovich3style.com

Aganovich brings forth something a little different this fashion week with a collection seemingly inspired by a cross between vintage YSL and Disney villains. Heavily architectural garments blend Victorian corset fit with bulk, layering and impossibly high pointed collars.

The collection focuses on variants of suiting with pants, skirts, vest, blazers and overcoats. Masculine pieces have been reimagined for women’s bodies and met with a dose of deconstructed brilliance.

The layering of both garments and textiles creates a volume counter to the tight fit of the underlying garments. The effect is a dramatic one lending the experience of a period-blended film of Oscar-worthy status.

aganovich6 aganovich7style.com

A sombre palette focuses primarily on black, white, light grey, navy and deep cognac in a mix of textures and simple prints. Hints of red can be seen as well.

Styling includes natural makeup, messy pulled back ponytails and canvas shoes. Rounded brim fedoras appear in the show’s lineup as well.

Rick Owens

rick-owens1 rick-owens4style.com

Although slightly on the side of robotic (with a little extra thanks to the makeup), Rick Owens delivers another collection that simply must be branded as “cool”. Heavily architectural pieces are paired with simple drapery in creating avant garde looks that  are somehow still true to the ready-to-wear category.

Tunic tops with cape necks are the clear must haves of the collection. Other key pieces include maxi skirts, puffer coats and pointed asymmetrical zip-up sleeveless tops.

Detail is what truly shines on this runway offering subtle suggestions of glamour. Sequins and fur fringe are unexpected from Owens, but definitely play a crucial role in stringing together all of the looks. Textures like supple suede, rigid canvas and heavily quilted nylon all work together surprisingly well. Though print in the true sense is minimal, a heavy geometric focus caries through from start to end.

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All neutrals came down the catwalk including black, grey, taupe, olive, tan, navy, brown and hints of metallics. The subtle hue variations on the neutrals; however, creates the illusion of color at times.

Ankle booties, studded over the knee boots and tall gladiator boots are the main footwear focus. Hair is sleeked back tight. Makeup varies from completely natural, to dramatic black under-eye makeup to complete silver or gold faces adorned with spikes.

Styled and Filed Under Strange Love

Maison Margiela

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Under the new direction of John Galliano, Maison Margiela goes all out with the styling of the fw15/16 show. Though the collection itself is an aesthetically pleasing mix of the 20’s, 60’s and 90’s, the hair and makeup is something more akin to a cheap carnival clown.

Neon colors dominate the faces of models with overdrawn coral lips and a mix of turquoise and orange racoon eyes. Some of the girls get the “subdued” look with over the top (times 20) black cat-eye makeup. Hair is either heavily teased, or colored boldly and tucked under a funky Blossom inspired hat or beret. Necks get neon yellow floral corsages. Lucky feet get slipped into stunning ombred pointed toe sandals. Other models are sporting slippers akin to the abominable snowman feet.

Perhaps the weirdest of it all; however, os the stances of the models. Some carry tan grocery style bags as if pulling off a heist and others hunch their way down the runway appearing creature-like and overall odd.

Givenchy

givenchy1 givenchy2style.com

Givenchy steps more than a few feet away from its usual subdued styling for this moustachioed and bedazzled runway. Clothing in the collection favors romanticism with folkloric prints, lush velvet fabric, fur trims and flowing feminine silhouettes. The styling; however… not so much!

The hair is pulled back into thin stranded pigtail braids bringing to mind leiderhosen. Bangs are gelled to the forehead in twists and twirls looking as though the monopoly man’s moustache skidded up the face a good 2.5 inches, flipped over and made its way to Paris Fashion Week.

Though makeup itself is a non-issue, studs are all over the models faces appearing as tear drops, chin rings, cheek rings and of course, plenty of large earrings. Each model gets a moustache, though some are more bling than basic.

With all that going on up top, footwear is left to simple pointed toe mid-calf boots in neutral leather.

Looks We Won’t Soon Forget

Paco Rabanne

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Taupe has never looked so striking as it does coming down the Paco Rabanne PFW catwalk. This mixed media look blends opaque with sheer and 2D with 3D as it plays with the rules of geometry.

Though the silhouettes both on top and bottom are nothing crazy, the textile work is something to marvel at with plasticized spikes coming off the mid-calf pant flare!

Kenzo

kenzo1                                                      style.com

Once again, Kenzo delivers beautiful athleisure with a hit of the unexpected. An aymmetrical tunic top slashed with the classic track suit stripe filters into a metallic emerald floral print  skirt which rests above pants that follow  its lead. Paired with leather gloves, a riding hat and head scarf, the look channels equestrian chic perfect for resortwear. Perhaps born to the wrong season, this look still begs to be part of my wardrobe.

Well, that’s a wrap on fashion month fall/winter 2015/16. We’ve seen it all from the wonderful to the wonderfully wacky (Comme Des Garçons… really….). Hope you’ve all enjoyed reading my thorough assessments week by week. Check back soon for a full trend report covering all four weeks of fashion!

Milan Fashion Week Roundup

Another perfect week of fashion is behind us. Three cities in and the trends seem to be falling neatly into place. That macrotrend report will be coming your way in a few weeks time. For now, let’s have a closer look at what came our way from the Italian runways this fall/winter 2015/16 ready-to-wear fashion week.

Collection Perfection

Trussardi

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Trussardi came out strong this season with a leather finish to her usual dose of militarism meets minimalism. Fabric play of sheen to matte offered all the drama the collection needed while allowing the pieces to stand out for their sporty chic tailoring.

Key pieces in the collection included tapered pants, cropped jackets, jumpsuits both with and without sleeves, patchwork sweaters in heavy sweater material and simple sheath dresses.

Details such as fold-over waistbands and exaggerated rounded lapel rolls were pivotal to Gaia Trussardi’s sticking the landing. The real star of the show; however, was her fabric choice. Loose stitch velvety knits and chunky cable knits provided a lightened relief to dramatic leathers in a movable glove-like leather.

Trussardi3 Trussardi4style.com

The collection’s palette was true to its modernist aesthetic with dense colors and a host of neutrals including several shades of grey, sumptuous chocolate browns, cafe au lait, sand, deep emerald, forest green, prussian blue and bronze.

Styling choices really held the clothing together with twisted and knotted low-hanging up dos and deep purple lips. Belts appeared as part of the collection and matched the shows v-opening ankle booties.

Etro

Etro1 Etro2style.com

Pretty in prints as per usual! Veronica Etro did not stray far from her bottom line with this stunning collection of folkloric prints in exotic desert hues. Though florals and paisley play a part, the emphasis was clearly on geo prints and patchwork. In a way that only Etro can pull off, the collection was pure organized chaos!

The interiors inspiration was felt throughout the loud prints, leaving simplicity of shapes and subduing the sex appeal. Peakaboo slits were seen in the collection’s key long-sleeve jumpsuits. Also crucial to Etro’s fw15 ready-to-wear line are overcoats, vests, cropped bootleg trousers, floor-sweeping dresses in simple silhouettes and illusion pleated skirts.

Aside from the dazzling production of all the mixed prints, Etro threw in a little lustre every few pieces for a touch more wow-factor. Silhouettes were kept clean and simple to not fight with the bold textiles.

Etro3 Etro4style.com

Colors were all over the map with this dreamy paint set collection of chroma. The subtle neutrals of sand, brown, grey, taupe and black contrast the clay-based art colors of rust, orange, teal, peacock, mustard and wine.

Loose long locks were middle-parted and accompanied by clean makeup looks. Metal based chokers rested on the necks of the models. Footwear consisted of rounded and slightly square toed boots matching the palette of the looks.

Strange and Beautiful

Angelos Frentzos

AngelosFrentzos1 AngelosFrentzos2nowfashion.com

Though clearly eccentrically styled, Angelos Frentzos delivered some pretty ready-to-wear clothing. The collection is American sportswear meets 1920’s with a mix of silhouettes and textiles. Fringe and flapper overwhelm the beginning of the show, androgyny comes in midway with layered shorts and bombers and the show finished with feather embellishments merging the two styles into one.

Silhouettes were overall loose fitting with boxy skirt and short suits dominating the runway. Other key pieces included lounge-fit tunic shirts and A-line tube tops.

Geo prints factor in as well along with bird embellished textiles and colorful painterly micro blocks. Still, it’s the balance of texture that really sets the mood on the collection from the ribbed jackets to the feathered skirts.

AngelosFrentzos3 AngelosFrentzos4nowfashion.com

A palette consists mainly of black, white and grey, but with pops of multicolor and moments where red shines through.

Frentzos made a bold choice to block out the models faces with black baseball caps holding feathers in place. The decision to eliminate the model from the runway so to speak allowed the clothing to come up on its own merit. Other styling decisions were kept minimalistic with tied gladiator style sandals.

Jacquemus

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Subtlety may not be the strong suit here, but artistic license is in full force. Jacquemus certainly got crafty for this collection that plays up the female form. For the purposes of keeping this PG, I’ve left off the countless looks that prominently feature the bare breast, but it’s likely the overalls pictured below will leave you with the main idea.

This piecework collection compiles what appear to be near scraps of fabric into composed pieces. There’s a healthy dose of drapery on the nondistinctive silhouettes. Loose and fluid would explain most including a dress meant to represent the human hand, misplaced sleeves with a mid-chest start point and pants with a waistline large enough for three.

If all of the outlandish traits weren’t enough, Jacquemus threw in a few extra details. Colorful metal grommets, asymmetric leg of mutton sleeves and overgrown knots finish looks in this bold collection.

Jacquemus13 Jacquemus15style.com

Somehow, amidst the insanity, a tasteful palette (slightly) reins it in. White, navy, black, tan, taupe and army green dominate with only mild peaks of orange, yellow and sky blue.

Styling in this collection is definitely worth noting with a half-face drawn onto some models’ cheeks to compensate for hair covering their right sides. Other faces were covered completely with round paper masks. With all that going on up above, it’s no wonder that footwear was left off altogether!

Skillful Styling

Luisa Beccaria

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Luisa Beccaria presented a collection perhaps better fit for the Parisian runways with her stunning vintage French styling. Elbow length gloves and berets offer a softness complimentary to the collection that’s supremely feminine in its form fitting silhouettes and delicate feathered and printed detail. Fishnet tights and a deep burgundy lip give an vixen-like toughness to the looks, offering a hardened contrast equipped for modern Italian women.

Marco de Vincenzo

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Slips of color were crucial to both the collection and styling of Marco de Vincenzo’s fw15 rtw collection. With multicolored strips lining of much of his collection, Vincenzo used styling to highlight the effect. Rainbow rounded glasses came down the catwalk on some models while others wore color saturated puff satin braided sandals. Plastic chain-linked belts also set the standard for this psychedelic 70’s meets futuristic collection.

On My Wish List

Nº 21

Number21                                                       style.com

Nº 21 just got this one right with the variant monochromatic palette and the contrasting layers and textures. From the boiled wool sand colored coat to the cafe au lait lingerie inspired satin dress adorned over pants, it’s layers the way we all wish we could pull them off!

Tod’s

Tods                                                       style.com

There’s something so striking about the perfect white blouse. With a jacket fit and styling, this thin piece breaks all the expectations for outwear. Paired with a digitized geo print pleated leather skirt, this look is the under the radar chic we’ve come to associate with Tod’s.

Well ¾’s of fashion month is behind us and we’ve seen a great deal worth justifying an elaborate clothing budget. Paris fashion week is in full swing at the moment. Click here to live stream some shows. Otherwise, check back in a few days to read up on the final triumphs of fw15 rtw!

London Fashion Week Roundup

Well, London Fashion Week came and went rather quickly. The five day fashion frenzy brought its fair share of excitement and drama. From the eerily quirky model walks at the Giles show to the blogger crashing the final model walk at Jean-Pierre Braganza, marvellous curiosities were everywhere. Not the least of which, why did Cara trade in walking Topshop Unique for a frow seat with Kendall Jenner? Alas, some mysteries are better left unsolved. Instead, I think I’ll direct our focus on the fashions themselves. The sweet, sweet glorious fashion.

Covetable Collections

J. JS Lee

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The magic of J. JS Lee’s fall/winter 2015/16 collection begins with the styling of a pageboy-bowl cut mashup and an orangey red lip. This strikingly simple look bounces brilliantly off of the minimalist clean aesthetics coming down her catwalk. A cheeky tailoring theme throughout features sewing details such as mock needles gathering fabric and visible threading. Beyond the structured garments; however, is a softening that comes from this season’s trim of choice; fur.

The collection is very dress heavy with sheaths, shifts and sleeved/sleeveless trapeze cuts showing up throughout. Overcoats play an important role as do cinched waist trousers and slouchy turtleneck sweaters.

JJSLee5 JJSLee9theglassmagazine.com / katiechutzpah.com

The color palette is subdued with blacks, whites and greys at the forefront. Blush weaves its way in and out, always on a canvas of fur. Limited geo prints in the collection bring a yellowed gold color as well as rhodolite. Full collection here.

Mother of Pearl

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Classic American sportswear took a turn for the better with romantic prints, luxe color combinations and textural interplay at the Mother of Pearl show. Combinations of furs, leathers, taffetas, perforated textiles and sheer fabrics allow for simplistic loose fitting silhouettes.

Key pieces in the collection include bomber jackets, raglan coats and bespoke suiting with an urban twist.

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A warm color palette for the collection includes many seasonal favorites including dusty pink, deep chocolate brown, camel, cognac, deep teal, mustard and orange. Pale yellow and pea green guest star briefly in a gingam print. Finally, a lesser dose of the standard black, white and navy are included throughout. For the full collection, check out style.com.

Sublime, with a Side of Eccentricity

Christopher Kane

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Mostly in the realm of wearable, Christopher Kane’s FW15/16 collection holds its eccentricity in its encompassing of the human form (and I’m not talking about sharp tailoring). Prints inspired by a woman’s body fly off the dresses in a fringe-like fashion. Cameos live in vibrant colored velvet. Even nudity is included in smaller details, making the avant garde pieces more of an art tribute than wearable works.

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Pieces not dealing in anatomy; however, are still playful with fabric “scribble” style strips. The balance of the collection is entirely pret-a-porter with stunning bespoke suiting and mid-waist dresses. Click here for the full collection.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label

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True to her persona, Vivienne Westwood styled this catwalk in the most peculiar of ways with red and black paint fight style makeup and neck hugging braided hair cozies. The clothing; however, need not such drama to stand out. Fantastical silhouettes play up volume and geometric shapes as they turn heads over and over again. Wallpaper florals are paired with tweed plaids, leg of mutton pants paired with multicolored fringe trimmed leg warmers, Yin Yang cut blazers with origami neck ties and dress capes are given massive hoods. This is not a collection for the faint of heart.

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Still within the absurdity is a glimmer of “I’d love to get my hands on that Westwood jacket”. Severing the looks and breaking them down by item leaves just the right amount of bold statement piece. Menswear silhouettes in womenswear fabrics and colors are also offered in this collection for the lighter touch. See full collection here.

Strange and Spot on Styling

Ashish

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So here’s a collection that absolutely oozes grunge with a side helping of sex. 90’s patchwork, hardware, rhinestones, camo print and acid washed tie-dye denim are all over this collection. Add in sequin heavy lingerie for outdoor wear and Ashish’s (likely) accidental nod to Broadway’s Kinky Boots and you’ve got a proper SHOW. Whether or not the word “fashion” should be its prefix is still up for debate. One thing is for certain though; the styling was right on the money. Two-toned hair featured puffy front bangs and messy half-dos in back. Lips were all given a hit of the same vibrant red featured throughout the collection. Love it or hate it, the styling really did channel Courtney Love in its intended fashion. See more of the wonderful insanity here.

Marques’Almeida

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For a collection full of frayed edge denim, tinfoil dresses and layer-heavy drapery, Marques’Almeida’s fresh out of the pouring rain styling somehow works. Hair is near glued to the models’ faces with a streaky greased up appearance and eyeliner has melted dramatically as if post-breakup. Is it beautiful? Certainly not, but then neither is the literal interpretation of streetwear collection. Various pieces teeter on wearable, but the overall feel is much more MOMA than it is MET. See all the looks from the runway here.

Future Items in My Dream Wardrobe

Jean-Pierre Braganza

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Pairing Jean-Pierre Braganza’s thematic origami shapes with a minimalist overall silhouette made this piece a standout. A neutral palette of navy and white is livened by a sleek silver in forming an uneven stripe print. Sporty, yet classic and elegant in its own right, this piece would be welcome in most any wardrobe without causing a stir. See more elaborate pieces from the same collection here.

Mary Katrantzou

MaryKatrantzou                                                       style.com

Mary Katrantzou offered a completely unique collection at this season’s London Fashion Week with mixed media looks. Well beyond the standard textural blends, Katrantzou took her textiles to the next level with foam triangles, ruffled plastic elements, metallic disks and paisley embossed leather. While the entire collection is certainly worth a glance, this shift coat dress is at the top of my LFW want list. Matted and glossed feathers lead into wool-covered foam blocks followed by sparkling paisley embroidery all in a sophisticated fall palette. Completely unlike anything else out there, this piece has serious pass down to your future granddaughter potential.

Two cities down, two to go! Milan Fashion Week is well underway on day one. Check in next week for another roundup.

Oscars Red Carpet Looks

I interrupt your scheduled fashion week programming with this important update from the Oscars Red Carpet. Yes, that’s right readers, last night was the 87th annual Academy Awards show and along with it came a fresh batch of gowns ready for the critiquing. Luckily for the floppers, I’ll keep this on the side of kind.

The Award for Best Dressed Goes to

FaithHill JamieChungBuzzfeed.com

Here are two ladies that really pulled it off at opposite ends of the fashion spectrum. Faith Hill looks stunningly classic in J Mendel. Her sparkling white gown balances sophisticated and sexy as it follows the cardinal rule of only showing skin in one zone. Plus, how cute is that pixie cut?

Jamie Chung kills it on her first go of the Academy Awards Red Carpet. Her stunning Yanina Couture gown simulates fireworks with a beautiful sequin work in navy and silver on a bed of tulle. A translucent navy base rests over the same nude slip of the dress’ bodice for a contrast that is elegant and striking.

What Is This Sorcery?

AmericaFerrera ZoeSaldanabuzzfeed.com

Talk about knowing your body type. Simple, well tailored and exquisitely beautiful, both of these actresses knew how to work the carpet. America Ferrera stuns in a rich emerald green ombréd Jenny Packham dress. Aside from perfect fit, eye-catching details include a sheer overlay, twisted straps and a waistline belted embellishment.

Zoe Saldana leaves all the talking to the silhouette and tailoring. Course I would too if I had a custom made Atelier Versace gown at my disposal. Skillful fabric manipulation creates texture and detail on this gorgeous nude dress.

Because I’m in Fashion Week Mode

NaomiWatts LauraDern buzzfeed.com

While my head is presently wrapped around the idea of the severely avante garde, I can appreciate the risks taken by this set of Hollywood blonds. Naomi Watts confidently adorns a black and silver brick printed Armani gown. Print alone can be a Red Carpet risk, but Watts was so bold as to go print over bandeau. Well done!

Laura Dern took it to the next level with her dress/suit of armour courtesy of Alberta Ferretti. Though I wonder about the weight of the gown, its aesthetics need not be called into question. The silver and gunmetal gown is beaded and studded to a point of perfection. Less is usually more, but on this one, I’ll make an exception.

Right Dress, Slightly Wrong Colour

EmmaStone JenniferAnistonbuzzfeed.com

Stunning silhouettes, perfect fit, but still… something is just a little off. Emma Stone nearly hit out of the park with this gorgeous Elie Saab gown. The ethereal gown creates an abstract print with beading that is exquisite. The problem is the colour. Chartreuse is back in style if New York and London fall/winter 2015/16 Fashion Weeks have anything to say about it, but in limited doses. The colour is near perfect up top, playing brilliantly off Stone’s Mahogany hair and orange-red lips. The problem falls way south (and I’m not referring to her accidental reveal on the Red Carpet). The weight of the beads in combination with the flow of the gown and colour create a near soggy cabbage look at the gown’s base.

Jennifer Aniston had a similar fate with her nude strapless and sparkling Versace gown. Beading covers the entire look with its moulded bodice and striking panels. The issue here isn’t even the colour, but rather the colour in relation to the dress wearer. Aniston is unfortunately a little washed out in what ultimately becomes little more than the epic Sex and the City naked dress.

All that said, another successful awards night is behind us. Fear not the end of the glamour. Fashion month is still upon us and we’re only two days out from my next report on London Fashion Week. Until then, click here to catch some shows live from London tomorrow. Can’t wait to see what Ashish has in store!